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 Post subject: Timing chain's
PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 3:41 pm 
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1098cc
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My 998 has a simplex chain with no tensioner, is this ok?
will it be ok with my now warmed over 998? :?
also, generall discussion on timing chains, what do people run?
cheers

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:11 pm 
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For a well tuned motor with modded cam etc, the simplex ones just don't last.
10,000 miles maybe before it rattles... :x
I'd throw a duplex set in- even a pair of s/h duplex sprockets and a new chain is way better than a simplex. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:36 pm 
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Thanks doc
so thats definatly a "throw away your crappy old chain" :lol:
this could add a good 20% to the cost of my budget 998 to date :D
So, ill be ablo to get my valve timing etc all sweet with the duplex yes? no need for verina adjustables?
cheers

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:59 pm 
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jbeenz wrote:
So, ill be ablo to get my valve timing etc all sweet with the duplex yes? no need for verina adjustables?
cheers


Sorry incorrect


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 5:39 pm 
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close enough to correct? its only a 998 with a wade 113.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 5:43 pm 
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WhoDat wrote:
jbeenz wrote:
So, ill be ablo to get my valve timing etc all sweet with the duplex yes? no need for verina adjustables?
cheers


Sorry incorrect
?????
No need for vernier adjustables really- if you want to time it properly (not just line the dots up) use offset keys if needed, and see KC's writeup here-
http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm

Or, KC's alternative method-
http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm

Offset keys are available from Minispares UK etc in 1* increments from 1* to 9*.
Note that the key is there to line the sprocket and cam up. The drive torque is (should) be taken by the nut torque of 70lb/ft approx, clamping the sprocket onto the cam.
It is poor engineering practice to leave the nut looser and rely on the key for power transmission.
:wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 6:26 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Note that the key is there to line the sprocket and cam up. The drive torque is (should) be taken by the nut torque of 70lb/ft approx, clamping the sprocket onto the cam.
It is poor engineering practice to leave the nut looser and rely on the key for power transmission.
:wink:


especially with double springs i assume.

i will try track down a duplex setup, next engine may get vernia gears...if its really lucky :D

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 8:07 am 
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I used a Rollmaster Duplex kit... probably more than you want to spend, but worth it on my motor.

Peter.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 9:03 am 
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pristic wrote:
I used a Rollmaster Duplex kit... probably more than you want to spend, but worth it on my motor.

Peter.


i will use somthing more serious on my 1220 motor, but this is a slap-together 998, it owes me $400 so far all inclusive, all i need now is timing chain gear and oil pump :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 5:52 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Offset keys are available from Minispares UK etc in 1* increments from 1* to 9*.


Hey doc - I've seen a few of your posts with the star to symbolise the degrees symbol.

If you would like to know:- if you hold down the "Alt" key and press "2" then "4" then "8" then let go of "Alt" on the number pad it give the little "°" symbol - if you don't care I won't be offended! :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 6:59 pm 
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1018cc wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Offset keys are available from Minispares UK etc in 1* increments from 1* to 9*.


Hey doc - I've seen a few of your posts with the star to symbolise the degrees symbol.

If you would like to know:- if you hold down the "Alt" key and press "2" then "4" then "8" then let go of "Alt" on the number pad it give the little "°" symbol - if you don't care I won't be offended! :)

Thanks for that, I know about the £ symbol got that way, I'll add ° to the list. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 7:14 pm 
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Just a few that I have found handy. I have a bit of paper stuck on the wall with these ones.....

Alt and 248 = °
Alt and 0176 = °
Alt and 171 = ½
Alt and 172 = ¼
Alt and 0190 = ¾
Alt and 156 = £
Alt and 0128 = € (euro)
Alt and 0169 = ©
Alt and 0153 = ™
Alt and 0174 = ®
Alt and 0178 = ²
Alt and 0179 = ³


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 10:07 pm 
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If it's a cheap roadie, just change the chain... $10 :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:44 am 
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Lillee wrote:
If it's a cheap roadie, just change the chain... $10 :)

It won't last if it's a later A series one without any rubber rings- my son's new chain rattled after 5000 miles. Replacement simplex chains are all crap these days. :x Must be made in China or somewhere then put in a UK box.

If an A+ motor with tensioner, it may last better.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:07 am 
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hmm, id love to do the $10 simplex thing, but, i dont really want the rattles, this engine is only cheep because it was so good to start with :) its not a hyper-motor, just a tidy little 998 :D

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