Toe out tends to have that effect. It leads to instant instability and definitly gets the adrenalin going. I don't like criticising what other people have found to work without trying these things myself. I have been crticised myself by others who have never tried what I have found to be successful and I get annoyed. I have also found that what people think works is not always the best answer. Things get into folk lore and ideas change, sometimes for good and sometimes for bad. I tend to think that the best thing for a nini would be to increase the roll stiffness at the front to keep the front wheels more evenly loaded thus lessening understeer. But what seems to be logical doesn't always work so I may be wrong. That idea could fall down when the car is on the limit and the driver backs off, instant rear end breakawaythat would be uncatchable, the peugot 205gti suffered from this problem. Nothing is easy. Got to go racing and it looks like rain and its bloody cold, Bugger.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

I know Link automotive offer an adjustable suspension kit comprising of front adjustable lower arms, adj tierods, rear camber brackets and all set up for about $500. They say it makes a heap of difference and that only once all that is done do they play with a rear sway bar. Depending on customers requirements

Has Link Automotive got a website (I could not find one) or can you give me contact details for them. I have just dug out the tooling I bought about 25 years ago to make the adjustable lower control arms but will have to buy the rear camber brackets. The adjustable tie rods shouldn't present to much of a challenge. I was thinking of making them for other people as we used to, then reality set in regarding manufacturer's liability so I won't go there.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

Chris,
Problem #1 with increasing roll stiffness at the front (with a front sway bar) is, it will pick up the inside front wheel. No traction=wheelspin=no drive. Of course, with a good LSD you will get around this, but on the street without one..
The idea of using a rear roll bar is that by increasing rear roll stiffness, you reduce body roll but still keep the front wheels on the deck.
Progressive rear bumpstops are another way of skinning the same cat, by increasing the `spring' rate.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Many many moons ago in a far off galaxy....I once put two brand new tyres on the rear of a Mini and left the more than half-worn fronts alone.

The result was almost undriveable!!

The rear wanted to drive the front.....it would rear up the back under brakes and want to swap ends....a very uncomfortable feeling!

The point of all this?? well don't really know.....just to say that if bars were any good on Minis most of the racers would be using them (and they are not...) and that the rear end of Minis are more sensitive than people realise....maybe??

I swapped the fronts to the rear and the new tyres to the front....guess what?? Normal Mini behaviour returned immediately....

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"Show me the Mini!"