Not in this thread, mate.

Was just thinking about it Cush. Do you want high quality mechanicals that can sit on 7000rpm all day without blowing or ever wearing out? Well bad luck you can't! But you can have bulletproof. Cover the engine so their is no visible engine with inch thick steel. The in big yellow layer write "this engine is bullet proof" this should work.

But seriously I think you are chasing the pot o' gold at the end of the rainbow, or so to speak. The A-series IMO is a decent reliaible engine. The gearbox will last simply because gearboxs don't destroy themselves - People do! Yes old age will reduce strength and quaily but a propwrly maintained and non-thrashed engine/gearbox should last for a long time.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

i don't need a mini engine to sit on 7000rpm all day...

(i've got the honda for that)

i am well aware that the way you use an engine is just as important as how you build it...

i'm quite confident that i'm a competent engine handler...

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an engine is only as strong as its weakest part........

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thank's for that , Mr Miagi...


now back to the details...

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Speaking of which, what is the weakest part? What is the first thing to go? I know that some parts may not ahve been assembeld correctly or were of below-average quality, but say on a stock 998, what is the crappest bit? Besides the lack of cc's.. Joke.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

the weakest part is whatever you skimp on...

now are there particular brands and suppliers that one should stick to..

i see that ARP seem to be the bolt blokes..

is hypatec the way to go for pistons...

is it just the actual only choice, rather than the marketing departments "only choice"

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Right on Cush, this is the sort of stuff I need to know. As in for a hot road engine '....' conrod bolts would be fine enough but for racing '....' conrod bolts are the best. And so on..

Basically at the moment my engine is a 1330 'S' motor, nissan dizzy, twin 1 1/4 SU's, 2inch exhaust, LCB, straight thru muffer. I've got enough cooling extras - hi-flow 2 core rad, oil cooler, expansion tank. But very soon (within the month) the 'SC 12 supercharger kit' is going in to run at about 7psi with an HS6 carby. Ben Afford said the 'S' motor should be able to cope fine with that kind of power, but what about the gearbox? I've got a Mini 'K' 4 sncyro gearbox with 3.44 diff, 'S' drive flanges and hardie spicer uni joints. I am not worried about the motor just the gearbox. But as I and many people ahve said before 'engines don't kill gearboxs, people do'. So we'll see, anyways I'm only expecting around 80 hp at the wheels, which isn't a lot for a superchargered mini.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Boostedmini ran a stock Mini K box under his turbo 1360 for 5 years before he got a problem.
Build it right, don't abuse it and it will last.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have this sort of oil pipe on the LS (see below) and am wondering what is meant by "Drill out the oil feed on the spin on oil filter mount"and to what size???

I have an oil cooler on the Moke and am tossing up whether to take it off and fit it to the LS instead???

bullet proof eh? pack the front and back spaces in the engine bay with kevlar that'll make it bullet proof failing that chuck a whole heap or deep cycle marine batteries in the back seat boot where ever you can fit the damn things the remove the engine leaving the gearbox and replace it with an electric motor of several hp and with the right speed controller
lets see a blonde women driver stuff that up... no offence to blonde women drivers but statically they do cause the most mechanical problems

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why does everyone want a Cooper S when you ca have a better Clubby

Some of those lower nipples are small bore. Put an 8.5mm drill thru it.
Ditto the oilway from filter up into the block, drill to 8.5mm if it's all apart.
That banjo pipe is a restriction too, a 1/2" oil cooler hose is a better bet.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Never known this drilling out of the filter houseing bit

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

It's not the housing, it's the pipe nipple, and the block oilway that are the restriction.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Whilst laying underneath the Mini rear end in the 36 deg heat today, taking a rest....I was saying to myself....look at that pitiful fuel line going up the front....and then I looked at the hydro lines still dripping green stuff on me and I thought...how would a hydro line go as a fuel carrier for a hi-power donk with a suitable pump
(then I snapped out of it )

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"Show me the Mini!"