Can anyone help

The other day a guy I work with who's daughter has a 76 leyland s same as mine, noticed that her wheel bearings LHF and RHR were pretty stuffed... Anyway after some phoning around he came across a place that had replacements...

These cost about $70 a wheel.............We were told that due to the unusual inside diameter of the wheel and funny spacer (this is attached to one bearing) that generic bearings from BSC or similar are unavailable.

However I pulled my wheel off the other day and noticed that the bearings I have don't have the attached spacer but one that is separate. Im sure someone knows where to find cheaper bearings.......

Check out this thread we had previously. Although it's for theCooper S tapered roller bearing kits, they will fit in place of the stock ball type on any Mini, disc or drum- the ID and OD are the same.

http://tziworld.com/ausmini/viewtopic.php?t=138

And, they last longer- their load capacity is about double the stock ones..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Most bearing Places in the yellow pages will be able to help you with the code of the old bearing too. Call bearing places rather than spare parts places.

standard rear 37.00
standard front 53.01
cooper front 65.45
cooper rear 73.24
all prices are current and include gst from karcraft in sydney
02 9737 9944
makka


oh btw cooper front will not fit in drums

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Makka...

YES THEY WILL- I've fitted a few sets. ID and OD are the same. (but on drums the bearings go on the drive flange, not the CV).

Dimensions inside a drum swivel hub, or Cooper, or Cooper S, or even Metro are the same..

As I said though you need to use the spacer that comes in the Timken box, not the old ball bearing one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok i stand corrected
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Thanks for the info guys....

after discovering ausmini only recently, i have learnt many things.

I thought they were a bit dear......................


Stuart.

I bloody well hope the taper rollers fit. I just bought mine from BSC a couple days ago for 37 bucks per wheel(two Bearings AND the spacer), and the four seals were about 3 bucks each. Ended up costing me 93 bucks with GST for both front wheels.

I had another place tell me they were 70 bucks each, without the seals. just shop around a little.

EDIT.... I did ask about the price of the Ball bearings, and she said that the tapered rollers had dropped in price, and it wasnt worthwhile getting the ball bearings anymore.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

Yeah, that's what mine cost too. You might like to know that the markup in bearings from cost to RRP is about 1,000-1,100% NOT a misprint..

If a ball bearing costs them $1.00 landed in their store (FIS) they set RRP at $10 or $11.

No wonder they can afford to give you a little discount..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

geeee, and I'm forever throwing out those titanium bolts from work LMFAO. we get a whole $1.25 a kilo for titanium scrap too.

BS isnt it.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

They should fit OK. Tighten the nut to 60Lb/ft, and check they spin, with a slight drag. If no drag and there is also rock in the bearings, this means the web in middle of your swivel hub is a little worn.
To fix:
Set a dial gauge on end of shaft, check end float.
Pull the outer bearing cone out, then grab the spacer. Measure its thickness. Get somebody to surface grind it- amount ground off = (endfloat + .002").
Reassemble. Open beer. Enjoy..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok, I finally pulled my finger out, and changed the old ball bearing type for the tapered roller type.

I can definitely say that the Tapered Roller bearings will fit superbly in the hubs on the front. I havent had any problem from the rear bearings yet, but I might try tapers in them next time too.

But I dont care, I'm paying some poor bastard to do my CV's next time, I think I wiped more grease on myself packing them, than I got on the joints.

But the car is sweet to drive now, steerings tighter, car isnt rumbling along the highway anymore. I'm much happier now. I'll just see how these new bearings go over time.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

Tapers fit OK in the back, but they are lots dearer. I just use the stock balls- There's no weight in the back anyhow. BSC have a kit with seal, pretty cheap...

I changed mine 3 weeks ago because one was a bit dry and I thought what the hell- I'll do both. The old ones were 10 years old, done 70,000 miles, still good.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

you'll also learn what an apostrophe does too.
"learn't" isnt a contraction of "learn not"
how on earth could you have been bothered to put an apostrophe in learnt?

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Aha!.... apostrophe man strikes again!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.