The summer project is going to be a 1275 for 'Charlotte'. I'm going to use this thread to ask questions and give you guys updates on how its all going.

I went and had a chat to a mechanic I was introduced to who has all the 2nd hand mini bits I'll need on hand in his shed. We had a talk about a few things & it looks like I'll be able to pull a complete Morris 1100s 1275 on off his shelf and swap the transmission over to a 4 synchro remotefor $700. I think I should be able to get a 3.4 final drive included as well.

Apparently the 1100S block that he thinks I will get has Cooper 'S rods in it... He said he'd peeked in somehow... dizzy hole? He said if its got an EN40B crank in it that he'll want to keep that and swap me over to another crank. In another thread Dr Mini says that that the 1100S cranks with bigger journals are better than then small-journal cranks. What should I be looking out for?

I've been quoted $2750 for the engine rebuild with some porting/flowing of the head. The crank/rod balancing and cam grind as well as the 'box recondition will be extra. I don't really know the exact details of the rebuild... like what pistons will go into it and whether the water & oil pump & gasket set is included. I reckon this sounds a little bit expeno and its stretching my budget anyway so even if it is about the right price I'm looking for ways to get the price down. Any suggestions?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

your not getting it bored at all
that sounds like a reasonable price its hard to find someone who will give you and rebuild a 1275 engine for less then that
good luck with it look foward to seeing updates

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Cheers

Yeah I'm pretty sure that quote is for a bore job and pistons to suit. I'm not interested in taking away more than I need to. What are the chances that quote includes the cost of the new (or replacement 2nd hand???) pistions? It kinda sucks not having spoken to the engine builder directly yet...

Assuming the quote includes pistons should I just take what I'm given or are there some specialty types availible that are worth using, extra bang for buck etc? I've been reading about pistons in the Vizard Bible but I'm thinking that a lot of the pistons he talks about aren't availible in aust. or aren't availible any more.

Can anybody give any insight into what type of crank/rod combination I should be looking out for? There's a few 1100S motors that I can take my pick from so I may as well try to get the best combo.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

The 12YD engines mostly had Cooper S or MG Midget rods and the `small (big end) journal' crank. Similar to 1275S crank but material not as good.

The later ones have a stronger `big journal' crank and heavier rods.

If you are looking at the inside of the engine, these rods have big square lumps on the caps. There are lumps at the little end of rod, too. They can be lightened for high performance but it takes a bit of work. Easier to buy in some A+ rods from UK.

For a road motor it probably doesn't matter which crank, if properly built.

I would specify Hypatec pistons, they are stronger and cheaper than most of the Hepolites. I get mine from Ken Nelson at Mini Automotive in Ipswitch.
73.0mm pistons to get 1360 cc are available for only $20 more than the standard +.020, +.040, +.060" oversizes.

Building a motor properly costs $$$, but it's worth it- the motor will last for years. But if you take shortcuts...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thats good info Doc...

So there's a bit of a trade off considering we're just going to grab me a complete engine off the shelf. It's either 'S rods/weaker crank or heavy rods/stronger crank. Given you don't reckon the cranks make much difference if worked on properly, I guess I should go for this engine that has the Cooper 'S rods as they're lighter and a bit more sort after according to vizard.

Also, I don't think I will have time/money/motivation to sort out A+ rods from the UK in time. Plus thats an extra cost when I can just have the original rods balanced, I think they should be fine.

I'm pretty sure that the engine won't have been rebuilt before so it should be right to go to 20 thou over'? Or do sometimes they get so worn you have to go beyond the next std overbore? Do you just take what rings your given or should be choosey about that?

dewey
P.S : Hey Doc I've noticed just recently that you rarely quote actual prices... just the difference between one option and another... is that a concious thing?

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dwightgunning.com

I don't quote actual prices on the board, because someone else is sure to take exception.
But Hypatecs are way cheaper than Hepolites at the moment, and are a better piston, IMO.

PM me if you want to know actual figures..

If bore is not worn much going up by + .020" is OK- but if it's worn bad go +.040" over whatever it is now.
Don't try and fit new pistons in an old bore-- it's false economy. The boring is the cheap part..

Or you could go to 73.0mm - 1360cc (offset bores)- you can then always bore it later to 1380...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Excellent.

I'm starting to get a bit better handle on things. It all seems a really huge task to sort out in the beginning... block, internals, gearbox, head & valvetrain, ancillaries etc.

One more question regarding internals... are piston rings packaged with the pistons or are there a few options in that department to? Vizard mentions a few details about rings but going to that detail is probably a little extreme considering its just a road car.

I'll have to consider the bore when we pull the block. I'm under the impression that it should be in fairly good shape. My guy said we can pull the heads from a few and find one thats got plenty of life left in it so I'm hoping to find one that I can just take to 20thou over.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

I have taken the 1275 out of the clubbie to put the Starlet engine in but at some stage would love to rebuild the 1275. When bought it was supposedly 1310, that would make it +40 wouldn't in which case I only have one more bore left correct?

M

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

nah i think you can go to 1330 or then off set bore to 1380

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Cheers

These days you can go to 1360 (73.0mm pistons) and leave the 1380 size for later. Hypatec make the pistons, they come with Hastings (USA) rings included.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey hey,

Won't have much progress with the engine this weekend cause my guy is on holidays so I figure I should put through an order for some of the extra components I'm gonna need.

Can we talk fuel, water, oil pumps for a bit? Brand new all of the above is probably the safest way to go I'm thinking?

I know there's plenty of options for the fuel pump, I think I want a gravity fed one sitting up under the rear subframe. Are the SU pumps the best option? I've noticed a couple people mentioned VL pumps and stuff like that? Is it worth sourcing 2nd hand?

As for water and oil pumps, I guess I'll just get the standard sorta ones from karcraft. Is there anything I need to look out for in this department? Ohh and speaking of oil... how about center oil pickups -- are they worth the expense for a road car?

dewey
P.S:
I recieved my new China-lite wheels from tempe the other day. They look awesome, I'm stoked. I've put one side on for a test fit and the rears are under the arches with stepped drums no problems at all. No rubbing either. Up front I have stepped drums as well (my track must be pretty bung thinking about it now) and the rubber is about 35 outside the arch. Its pretty noticable so I'll have to go back through the disc threads and figure out what to do.

I'm going to pull the swivel hubs off my clubman rolling shell this weekend and clean them up and do some 'thinking' about how the backing plates are going to go. I've got a mate who's pretty handy and should be able to help me knock up the caliper mounting brackets but I've gotta wait till he gets through uni for the semester.

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dwightgunning.com

SU pumps are OK, but I like the Facet/TRW/Purolator solid state pumps. No points to wear out. Only downside is they buzz all the time. Mount it on a Mini exhaust bracket (the square one) to shut it up.
How long do they last? I dunno, but my red car's had one for 9 years and it came off another car then..

DEFINITELY, fit a centre oil pickup. $104 at Karcraft, worth every cent if you drive hard round RH bends.
Kazjim can tell you what can happen without one....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

what happened Kaz, huh, huh?

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

So a center oil pickup is going on the list

Maybe James caught lotsa tasty boost around to many long sweeping rights?

Regarding the Facet/TRW/Purolator fuel pumps... are they sold new or easily come by at the wreckers etc? Am I just looking for a basic type of solid state fuel pump that can provide the right pressure (2-3 PSI according to vizard) and a decent flow rate (what sorta flow rate)?

If I can pick up one from the wreckers I'll probably do that. They'd be fairly easy to change I should imagine if it does fail down the track. The SU ones on that site I've lost the link for are $$$$$$

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

I got my last pump (Purolator `Pro #12S') from Robbos Spares. Anybody can order one for you- ie AutoBarn, Auto One, etc.
This one was destined for the 850, but now it's going on Barney the 1293 S `replica' and will be feeding a pair of HS4s.. (only 'coz it's my wife's car- and they are quieter than a Dellorto)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.