Rick thanks for sharing your experience and advice

I'm going to take the wheels off and have a look at the disc and take photos as well

What the Dr said.

I used to get the same sound, then sussed how to fix it.

Remove nut and taper washer. Put a large FLAT washer infront of the drive flange and tighten nut to 150 lbs. Remove nut and flat washer and replace with tapered washer. Tighten again to 150lbs. If the nut and taper washer look flogged out replace them.

Problem solved

Diecast

I took the front wheels to take photos of the disc condition and checked if there's anything loose...

The driver's side lower disc shield is touching the disc, so just pushed it out a bit and test drove the car and guess what no more noise!!!

I was quite happy but then I was going to check the driver side's disc shield and it doesnt have one!


Now I need one....off to fleabay....

You dont need them - they arent really that functional apart from trapping gravel and scoring your discs

Hooroo

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

I still prefer an extra protection to the disc, you know how low the minis are and I think gravel can easily hit the disc

here's a photo of my disc with rust on the edge
thought this was causing the noise....

Like rob said, the gravel gets stuck and scores the disc. I've never had them fitted and have never had scored discs.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Oh yeah, forgot to add I had a click-click-click at rolling speed, esp when slowing down on the drivers side. I knew it wasn't ball joints etc....I had just rebuilt the brakes etc...

It was inadequate torque on the hub nut as described by the other post's.

Cheers

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

...and brake cooling is much better without them.
Just watch when greasing the lower balljoint that the grease doesn't get on the disc.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

mine was having a similar sound to what you describe, so i got thinking that lately i've been doing really short drives so the pads must be crystlising (dont know how to spell it)
so yesterday i went for a burn around the dandenong mountins, gave my brakes a hot time and burnt off all the old crap. the sound isnt there anymore

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

Message for DrMini: Drive shaft nut tightened up to 120 ft/lb and it reaches split pin hole. My question is if I tighten up to the next cut out in nut to realign hole I believe tension would be well in excess of 150 ft/lb. Would this cause too much load on the wheel bearings. There is only 1 alignment hole in shaft. Would appreciate your thoughts. Cheers Jim.

Start at 150 ft/lb then tighten more if you can't find the hole

Thanks for your advice. Jim.