i'm converting mine to dry from wet now and i got spax ajustable from brickworx for $250 aswell. then hilos for $170 top arm rebuild kit $50 each. and 4 new knuckels $50 dry rear subframe for ebay for $50 and i had a dry front so i stole the cones out of that. ajustable rear brackets for $120.
So all up 250
170
100
50
120
= 690
but you could and trailing arm rebuild kits for $50 each and ajuable bottom arms and tie rods so for $350
= $1140 if you have wet suspension there about but you have to shop around

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

All these new shockies and on top of it all you need to replace the most important bit - the rubber cones( I am assuming you have rubber cone as you are getting the 4 shocks)

Replaced mine and the difference in the ride was unbelieveable. Might be yet another expense but well worth it in the long run...

I have GAZ shocks(thanks Maxi) and all but one of the rears works perfectly(all are getting rebuilt next month for 50 bucks a shock). The SPAX/GAZ/Koni/KYB lines are great shocks but dont discount the Lipp brand - they are a light sports shock and budget priced($65 a shock) but look cheap(plastic upper cover)

At the end of the day, Bilsteins are over priced but downright sexy!! The old ford had 4 all round and cost me 1300 big ones. The ride was great though

Hooroo

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

What are new rubber cones worth?
Arent there special springs available to replace cones too?

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1962 Morris 850.....with a 1310

1998 Toyota starlet.....161.1hp atw

if you are eventually going to put her on the track getting adjustables might be a better option

Before you do anything, think about what handling you want, and what type of use you want to put it to. then:

1) If its wet, keep it! Add front oil filled shocks, not gas. Cheapies will do just as well as mega $$ ones here. Add rear competition bump stops.

2) If it is dry: New rubber cones (don't get coil over or coil spring replacements they generally are a waste of time.)
New shocks, spax or Gaz adjustables are a good idea.

3) for both wet & dry: If this is still not enough, get adjustable lower arms, tie rods and rear camber caster brackets. Keep 10" rims and go for quality tyres, Yoko A008/AO32R or Dunlop dj19s (Not sure on dunlop code, but type R is the generic name)

Get the suspension settings done by a mini specialist with a history of doing it right. people on here can give you local recommendations.

Be honest about the type of driving you will mostly be doing.

Then if still more wanted get a rear sway bar.

Have fun

Matt