OK you take off the collar in that pic by removing the roll pin.
Then follow my instructions in the how-to section, it's clearer there.
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12376

The Mini drive dog (from any donor Mini Lucas dizzy) goes on there instead.
As I said, the roll pin hole needs drilling out to 3/16" for the Mini pin.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc.
Just bein' sure.

To be sure, to be sure

Peter.

PS: It was the last 85 there... and good price, so I dont want to wreck it

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

OK, OK... the guy I bought it from gave me some books with it. The original manual (thats quite amusing and another manual "The Complete MORRIS AUSTIN MINI Workshop Manual" and it has pictures of every part of the car (almost) and exploded views.

Now I know what I need to

Peter.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Mine is in and worked like a dream for the first couple of days. last night I though I dropped a valve or burnt through a piston I had no power on the hills and could not get it above idle.
looks like the new in the spring 8mm plug leads could not handle the new power and I have no fire on both plug one and two. tried a couple of old leads and have better fire on one and two but the old ones are 7mm.
I also noticed that the engine runs hotter. ( the timing with no vac advance is around 16 BTDC if that means anything.)

Depending which dizzy it is, watch you do not over advance it.
eg. a D4R83 with 16* static advance will have 48* total at 4000 rpm! WAY too much...by 18*

Just put a 30* BTDC mark on the crank balancer, and set it to that at 4000 rpm or so.
Then, you won't burn pistons due to over advance.
BTW I've fitted lots of these dizzys and never burned a piston.

re the plug leads- I use Bosch ones now, A$5 each and worked great for years.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

*Borrowing the thread*
How important is the washer that sits between the drive shaft and the drive dog?

Also I know nothing about tuning an engine (BTDC/ATDC/TDC/etc)
Could anyone explain this process?

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1975 Leyland Clubman 'S'
1976 Leyland Clubman 'S' *work in progress*
I smile everytime!

The thrust washer is important, it prevents the drive dog wearing the dizzy body.
If it won't fit in (happens sometimes, depending on tolerances od the Mini dog and Pulsar dizzy) get someone with a lathe to machine the top face of the drive dog for clearance.
If I build one of these dizzys, I allow .005" clearance with washer in. Too tight and it can seize when hot.

TDC is Top Dead centre, ie piston at top of stroke.
BTDC = Before ***
ATDC = After ***

Whole books have been written on this topic, but-
Engines are set to get spark at plug before TDC as the combustion process takes time to occur. Higher RPM needs earlier spark timing than low rpm.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

cool, thanks

now to find someone with a lathe...and to find some books...

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1975 Leyland Clubman 'S'
1976 Leyland Clubman 'S' *work in progress*
I smile everytime!

i have the d4r83 in my clubman, 1100( LCB, 1.5inch su and airfilter) , and at the moment its set to 4 btdc, and it seems to have a huge flat spot under 3000rpm, i assume this is the dizzy having to much advance, can the d4r83 be modified easliy, so that you can have better power through the rev range. also has anyone else got the d4r83 to run well on an 1100, and what static timing do you have set.

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

I have the d4r82 - 12 and have it set at TDC using a strobe light. I have just changed the head gasket (no burnt anything inside ) so haven't had her out to check the power.

Note to doc I was not able to get bosch wires So I bought the set of champion to fit the dizzy cap (IE the 84 pulsar it came out of) they are a bit long but she seems to fire well

72clubman see the doc's post on setting it to 30* at 4000 rpm might work for you

I have run D4R83 and D4R85 on an 1100, and 1275, the difference is the 85 gives better low speed and lower midrange torque (when set at same max advance point of 30* BTDC).
If you have a flat spot just under 3000 I suspect it's carb related. With a cam of 270-286 duration, 2500-3000 is about where it is really getting onto the cam, and this can upset fuelling if it's not jetted/needled right.
With the twin HS4s on Barney's modified 1293, running #6 needles, too thick oil in the dashpots gave a flat spot effect when nailed (actually, it was going rich, but felt lean). Using ATF instead fixed it.
A decent A/F meter, either portable or during a dyno tune, will sort it out properly.
Money well spent.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.