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 Post subject: pulsar dizzy
PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:13 pm 
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1275cc
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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Electronic-Distributor-Dizzyy-Morris-Sprite-Midget_W0QQitemZ4646033380QQcategoryZ32072QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

im thinkin of bidding on this pulsar dizzy thats modified for the mini...

what sort of coil will i need with this?

any more info i need? ?

cheers

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:21 pm 
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You've read the Doc's How To ? http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12376

You can use your standard coil, but you'll get a better spark using a GT40R without a resistor. That's all you'll need. Good luck with the bidding - now that you've posted it here the price will double :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:38 pm 
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i read the how to but it was all over the place with the info

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 Post subject: Which coil
PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 9:16 pm 
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GT40R without a resistor is meant to be 'best' but any 1.5ohm as far as I read.

Cheers,
Peter.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 10:03 pm 
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harvey69 wrote:
i read the how to but it was all over the place with the info

???? :shock: :?
And I thought I was concise- took 1 page and was to the point! :lol:
Makes more sense once you have one in your hand, though!
ps. get the D4R85 if you can, they are better suited... :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 10:10 pm 
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ahhh crap i thought you were referring to the topic in the mods forum....

sorry man....

i have printed out the 1page directions so if i dont win this auction i can always make one.....

what price wuld it cost to do it myself.... like the pulsar dizzy from a wreckers.... so i have an idea on where to stop

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 10:43 pm 
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Usually cost $40 round here, with coil and cap. :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 1:12 am 
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buy one of these i want someone to get one, before i fork out all the dough on one! :)
http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/123DI ... Detail.cfm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 1:31 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
ps. get the D4R85 if you can, they are better suited... :wink:


Better suited to what exactly??

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 6:56 am 
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I reckon after testing these a while they are better for 1275, 1098, 998 too. A few people on here with smallbores have swapped from 83 to 85 and got better low and midrange performance.

Problem with the 83 is that they have 16* dizzy advance = 32* at crank, so for 30* total when fully advanced, you are looking at -2* BTDC static (ignoring vac advance if fitted). Not so good.

The 85 has 12* advance inside, = 24" total, so static timing to get 30* total is around 6* BTDC. That's more like it. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 2:46 am 
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Ah yes.

So i'll still need to modify either one to suit the supercharger. Cool.

Maybe I'll just invest in a Wolf or a Microtech...... or a modified camira computer :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 6:05 am 
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Kevin, stop being a math nerd....-2 BTDC is 2 ATDC *lol*


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 6:47 am 
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OK smac, my bad... but I was highlighting it's AFTER TDC, so not so good.. :oops:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 6:51 am 
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Oh I just teasin' :) Not sure if I ever told you - got the 85 up and running on my 1380....all good. I still have dreams about the 123 and will probably get one when I have the engine to justify it, but for now the 85 is doing the business.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 7:25 pm 
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Howdy,

I just picked up the D4R85 at Pick & Payless in Blacktown... LAST LAST LAST one...
I looked at every single Pulsar there... didnt bother looking at manual or auto... its from an N12 and in MINT condition :) yeah yeah!
I grabbed the coil with it, the lot for $55 ... not bad me thinks.

So, now I just have to convert it.
I know the thread in the sticky section helps... but im still lost.
Better take it to my mech mate... he's brilliant... and it doesnt cost me anything :)

Can someone tell me though, prolly Doc is best... but others will know...
If you look at this schematic... can someone point (draw) or just explain what is being changed. I dont know Docs terminology (Drive Dog, etc.)

Image

Is the circled part the only change?
Also, what is being cut off and filed?

Sorry if this should be clear... just isnt happening at the moment.
Maybe I am too excited about putting it in... :)


Thanks,
Peter.


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