Both can be done, try one side first if it fits then bob's your Anty's husband

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Wouldn't want to overdo it though, would mess with the float valve operation...

Are you intending to run without an aircleaner? Seems to be the only drawback with these inlets unless you cut a weber type box into the firewall.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Well not really because the float bowl is adjustable for this very reason. On coop S the carbs are angled at approx 30* and the float bowls still can sit perfectly vertical.

Try and remove the studs from either the manifold (fit the carb and then fit the studs) or even better remove the studs from the engine, squeeze the manifold + carb in and then fit the studs. On my engine I've used a combination of 3 studs and 3 high tensile bolts which allows you to remove and refit a whole redline 5'' manifold and a Dellorto 45 with the bottom filter plate without dissasembly. And most people will know how little room there is with such setup.

Ty,
I'd machine the flange that goes onto the block a few degrees, in the case of this manifold. That will raise the whole thing.
I know Graham plays about with this a bit, Sprites I think have the opposite problem.
Or just ring Graham and ask him.

On my Redline 3005 with the Dellorto 45 and Ramflo, I kicked the carb up 3* by machining the manifold's carb flange. This also reduces the angle of the port into the manifold- I reckon it helped the breathing.
I can now get my fingers under and behind the Ramflo filter.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Oh OK, I saw a comment about the fact it was an HIF....didn't realise it was from a different person....

being machined as we speak.

I'll be running an ofset Ramflow (I hope)

I have one of these manifolds fitted to my clubman.

A couple of little body mods with a BFH have been done by the previous owner.

It is a really tight fit. The Jet seems to get in the way. Takes some massaging to get in place.

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Simon
Daily Driver - Yellow Devil 76 Clubman
Restoration Project - Primer grey 66 Morris Mini Deluxe

yep that damn jet.
On another carb I cut up a jet to see if I could trim it. No go I'm afraid.
Fingers crossed that the machining will do the trick.
I'll let you all know.

got the freshly machined manifold and yep all is good. Have about 5mm clearance between jet and firewall.

True??? 1275 taller??? by how much?? Woulda thought A series blocks were all the same height?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

True.
All 1275 blocks are around 10mm taller than an 850, 998 or 1098.
The pushrods are longer, too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you can , try and get a bit more clearance for the jet . I had similar a few years ago on the SU on a 1310 in a clubby , was playing silly buggers at the lights in Goulburn against a Falcon , big boot full , snap gear change into second and another boot full followed by a non going mini with a big petrol smell ...... the engine had rocked just enough to snap the jet off by it hitting the firewall . 5mm is enough on a stationary engine but on one under heavy load it isn't (especially if you're trying to teach a Falcon a lesson....) . This motor had two top engine steadies , was on a rod change box and also had some extra steadies at the bottom from the bolts on the side of the gearbox and still moved that much under load so get more room if you can .

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I know graham has a 14deg for the HS series and a 18deg for a hif carb and thats the difference.
I use one on mine with the 14deg and 2 carb spacers on it to clear my faire wall after it caught on it a bit but i t has increased the torque by about 3% also since i moved it back.

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www.minicranks.com add me to your watch list and come back again soon, under construction.