I'm thinking that the next step with my mini is either forced induction or a better carby(ies).

I was thinking of getting myself a Weber since i love the sound they make and i was of the impression that i would get some power increase.

The engine is a 1330cc A+ with a Wade cam, ported and extractors... at the moment its got a single SU that i thought was a 1&3/4" but have been told by a couple of people that it's a 1&1/2".

Is a weber easier to keep tuned than a pair of SU's?

Will i get a noticable power increase to warrant all this bother? (It currently makes 47kW at the wheels).

Should i be going for twin SU's instead?

Ballpark figure for the cost of a rebuilt weber and manifold? And best place to buy one?



PS: I did a search and found a bit but not enough.

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- Simon -

Webers/Dellortos do not usually need "rebuilding" as such, but a couple of seals and its all back to perfect.

They are DEFINITELY a BIG step up from the SU.
Expect to pay 250 (bare) upwards for Carburettor, manifold, throttle linkage and air cleaner.

Definitely worth the money spent.



Quick Q... are you still running the Verto clutch or have you resorted to the old-school technology clutch?


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-45-DCOE-Weber-setup_W0QQitemZ4641305010QQcategoryZ32072QQcmdZViewItem

Um, i don't understand the clutch question... i haven't touched the clutch... but then i haven't touched much. The engine work was done by the previous owner..

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- Simon -

Thats a nice one, would be a steal to get it at that price, too.


Clutch... there's two types of Mini clutches.
PM me a pic of your clutch housing and i'll be able to tell you what you have (including slave cylinder and clutch arm)

Oh, i forgot to add... my mate was raving about the webers he bought for his Shitsubishi Scorpion... he said they were better than a lot of them out there because they were an old model that was pre-emission control and such power wasn't comprimised by emissions crap. Is there a type of weber that is better than another? Should i be looking for something specific?

Teach me peoples... i wish to learn.

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- Simon -

Yeah i have heard this also, but do not know enough on the topic to comment... Doc will put in his moneys worth tomorrow I'm sure.


I see u removed the link, good idea

yes, i figured you'd have seen it but everyone doesn't have to.

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- Simon -

I don't know much about the `emission' Webers, but I have set up and used both pre-emission and post-emission Dellortos which are VERY similar.
Both can be set to work OK on a road car.
Properly set up and jetted, a Weber will run for years without attention, and you never have to synchronise them like twin SUs.

If buying 40DCOEs, the pre-emission DCOE 11 and DCOE 2 are the ones to get, according to Hammill's exhaustive (and very good) Weber book.
He makes similar comments about the emission Dellortos but as I said I've found them OK.

I put a repair kit in my 45 Dellorto 10 years ago, apart from choke size & jet changes I've not touched it since.

S/H Dellortos are cheaper than Webers and work the same IMO. I find them easier to jet right too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The complex answer is: maybe

I bought my DHLA 45 for a bargain price of $160 with a manifold and linkages. Including the kit and some jetting this came to about $250 approx.

If you already have twin SU's or a HIF44 then forget it I say (esp HIF44). But if you are looking to upgrade then I think you will find it hard to find a set of twins, rejetted and kitted for under $300?

So yes if you can find it for a good price, do it. You won't look back!

PM for details on where to find the cheapish Dellortos *hush hush*

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

So if i were to be looking at getting a 45 DCOE how do i work out which ones are emissions ones and which are pre-emissions? Would a DCOE13 be pre or post?

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- Simon -

the weber is for you if you like filling up every two days

I drive it on the weekends only... if i have to fill up every two days then the first thing i'd do would be to fix the hole in my fuel tank.

Fuel efficiency is of low concern.

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- Simon -

weber away with abandon!

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- Simon -

The shaft on the carb in the photo appears loose - dont they need a washer and a nut on both ends of the shaft? Or is it only the dellortos?

BTW I bought my Dello 45 for $160 with a ford manifold.(then sold the manifold on ebay for $150 so go figure). With 2 sets of chokes (1st set proved too small) new jets, an overhaul kit, ramflo filter and element, new redline manifold, porting for the manifold and small stub stacks for the filter etc it was prob over $500 so costs do add up (and this is with buying the chokes used and porting the manifold as a favour from the good doc. - would have been more if you get it in a shop). But its a great carb once set up properly on a dyno (was never right for me till we did put it on a dyno).

Oh and I was told by a few mechanics that the Weber 45 DCOE13 is the better pre emissions carb with fewer and smaller accel. progression holes whereas some later models have more and larger holes. I think Vizard says it somewhere too. I never actualy checked it though as I only ever owned a DCOE13 weber.