Is ther a substitute or replacement for a Lucas 16ACR alternator?

why bother if u don't mind me asking

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

yeah i would like a small item to fit to mine too, with internal fan and just light and small, must go see an auto sparky i guess

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Minisport in Adelaide had some cheap alternators going ($155 i think it was) anyway i called about them and they're the ones with the big plastic shroud on the back. he told me if i want the smaller one he has them too - same size as the original lucas apparently - about $230 iirc - give them a call - interstate postage is cheap...

G

I found an earlier thread on the forum.
Nissan Pulsar Bosch alternator fits with a bit of modification.
Why because I need a new alternator!
$155-$200+ is a lot more expensive than getting one from a wrecker.

Anyone know which particular bosch alternator is the best or easiest fit?
any particular model or year of pulsar?

their a bit of info on this thread your looking for a N13 Pulsar about 88-91 their pretty good alternators. their an official pulsar thread somewhere else but this should get you started


http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15764

best of luck and remember if you want your headlights brighter, fit good wires and a big relay for each to get that current to them

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

i had new internals put in my lucas for $130. and it's been fine since

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

If you buy a s/h Bosch one (Pulsar, or EA Ford) from a wrecker, check out whether the pulley is worn. They all had pressed tin ones that eventually wear to a U shape, then there's no way you can stop belt slip.
I fixed this by boring an early Lucas 15AC cast iron pulley to fit the Bosch shaft. No more problem...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

How about the Rover Magneti/Marelli ones? They give a heap more oomph, and bolt/plug straight on.

Just make sure you use the original pulley off your old alternator, the rover ones run at a different ratio off the A/C pump and i fritzed the bearings Silly me, i should've listened to my own advice when i put it on.

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

Purchased a Bosch alternator K14V 17/70A
Its connections are as follows
Large Red to B+
Med Red to S
Small white with blue stripe to L

My exist wires are
Large Brown with large spade
Small Brown Blue stripe with large spade
Small Brown yellow stripe with normal spade

Im supposing that large brown goes to B+
Small brown blue stripe to S
Small brown yellow stripe to L

Can anyone shed some light

I have the same alternator.My wiring is :

Large Brown to B+
Small brown yellow stripe to S
Small brown green stripe to L

Mind you I do seem to have a bit of dodgy wiring in my car so I'd only trust the colour code so far.

Large Brown Obviously goes to start solenoid so thats laydown B+

Small Brown with blue trace also ends up at the start soelnoid so I'm thinking it should be
to S

Small brown with yellow trace appears to be ignition so should be L

Now youv'e really got me confused! Thats at odds with yours.

yes the small Brown with Yellow goes to L. (indicator lamp).
We ran a switched 12V feed to S from the bottom fuseblock, on Chong's car (Mini-K).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What is the reason for running the S wire to a switched feed from the fuseblock and not retain existing wire that runs to the start solenoid?