after putting my motor back into the new subframe for the last time i did some clearance checks, all seems to be ok

I then read all the specs from the RTA link that minstar did and it says the 10mm clearance is from maximum load in forward and reverse

how are you meant to test this

how picky are they with this

any help from someone who has done this would be great , the motor goes in the car next week and i would like to solve these problems early

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with the fury of a Monkey Dishwasher aimed at your Purple

57 Morris minor
88 Rover Mini

stick a wad of chewing gum on the bits you think will come close, go for a drive and if any of the gum is thinner than 10mm, get out the hammer

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sounds easy only problem there is the car has to completely running and if it does fail i have to pull the complete subframe out than the engine

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with the fury of a Monkey Dishwasher aimed at your Purple

57 Morris minor
88 Rover Mini

stick it in situ and then shake it about like mad by hand..

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How is that they could check that? they coud check 10mm stationary but I can't see how they would check it under load......

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Two ways:
a) just listen for a clunk when accelerating/decelerating
b) stand to the side of the engine bay & watch while you do the mandatory
"engine stall" handbrake test.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

hopefully at that test stage it will be OK, I have plenty of spots for a steady bar and all my engine mounts are overkill in the rubber depertment

all the spots that are close are right down near the gear box and diff so my guess is it should pivot more than move foward and back like the top (head) unless its given a hiding eg snapping gears

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with the fury of a Monkey Dishwasher aimed at your Purple

57 Morris minor
88 Rover Mini

the front of my engine goes as close as 3mm at the front. Have given it an absolute flogging and there is no touching anywhere. I tend to find with the three mount setup the engine doesn't move much. Stick you little finger in the 10mm gap and rev the engine if it hurts you know you've gone under...

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Not with new / good condition mounts anyway (assuming you haven't fitted clagged out old engine mounts) what happens when they wear a bit

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

They are probably designed and placed in such a way that if one fails the other two will 'catch' it, to a degree.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Fuzzy, you should have been at Wheels I was there you could have had a look for yourself. I wouldn't class the rubber in the engine mounts as A1 but its OK.

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Yer, I can't talk I can't even appreciate how difficult it is (maybe shouldn't have put the in) but it would be nice if you had some clearance for when the rubber mounts deteriorate (maybe this is where the 10mm clearance comes from) otherwise you could end up changing the rubber mounts more often than you'd like or are there heavy duty mounts available.

I guess as gzevan said if it is down low it won't be a biggy.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Yeah Fuzzy your right about the mounts. I will probably raise the engine on that side at some stage and create a bit more clearance in that area. It is the one part of the subframe where things got a little tight. Always solutions, but I think now that it is rego'd that a bit of quality time with the wife may be in order... Yeah it is down low, up top I have quite a lot of clearance all 'round.

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au