Hi, i just signed up so i dont know anyone here but i figure the information and knowledge here is priceless.
I own a 1977 Mini Clubman and have nearly finished re trimming the interior. Im about to start work with the engine. Having a 998cc engine i dont want to put another cent into it. my plans are to find a stock 1275cc Engine, bore to 1380 or some stroke (depending on cost effectiveness), and turbo (T25 possibly). Being an engineering student most of the fabrication of say the exhaust manifild wont be too difficult...touch wood. my final aim is to pull about 150hp plus. not including brakes and suspension upgrades, i am looking to spend about 4k on this conversion as most of the work i can do, with the exceptions of boring etc. what i need to know are the right internals to use to reach this power. and if anyone knows of anyone with a 1275 engine for sale that isnt a total wreck for say under 500, seeing that most inside will either be recond or replaced. im following a rough guide as to what is on www.turbo-mini.com but i will still need help deciding on specific parts. so any help will be much appreciated.
cheers
Aaron[/b]

would get more attention in the a-series mods section i would say...

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Bling me up Scotty!
"wait till it grows into a plant...then bunny rabbit THE PLANT!"

1966 Morris Mini DeLuxe FOR SALE

Welcome to the forum.

You are pushing the limits to get 150hp+ out of a 1275 with an 8 port head. You wouldn't get close to it for $4K either. You would be looking at around $10K to get to the 120hp+ mark.

Also, don't wreck the engine by boring it out to 1380. Go to 1310, 1330 or 1360 and then stroke it if you want.

You'll likely be looking at $700-1K for a 1275 block.

If you want monster power, go the Suzi GTi/Honda Civic/Whatever conversion route.

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Morphias.
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If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space...

Agreed...thats why i am where i am now i was originally planning on a monster 1275 (overbored to something silly)...decided its too much trouble for too little power and reliability...

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Bling me up Scotty!
"wait till it grows into a plant...then bunny rabbit THE PLANT!"

1966 Morris Mini DeLuxe FOR SALE

1275 can be got a lot cheaper than that we paid 300 for a 1275 block head gearbox(3 syncho) etc in dismantled form. Probably have to wait a while to find one though

As Morphias was saying don't bore it out too big especially for a turbo as you get bore flex with the thin cylinder walls and this will end up robbing you of power. Try to look up some information of boostedminis's engine build he's using a big bore Aseries with a turbo.

IMO if you are aiming for 150hp you probably want to go for an engine conversion as this means you'll still have a reliable engine.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

cheers for all the input. hmm now u got me re-thinking. i wanted as least custom work to the engine bay as possible purely for simplicity but it seems that my ideal power of 150hp plus (actually wanting closer to 200) seem like im gonna need to decide on a suitable engine for the job.
the reason i wanted to keep a mini engine in there was i didnt want to have to re-design subframes and get them engineering licenced as that will completely blow my budget. ok, ill lower the margin. Big question for everyone, i want a 1380 mini engine, or a bore sumwhere around there. on a budget of 4-4.5k, what will be the componentry needed to get max power possible. (turbo essential)
need lots of input, i dont want to start it and then realise its gonna cost the earth or sum fabrications are gonna blow my budget. basically, most powerful (hp) mini engine on a 4-4.5k budget.
cheers
parts i ahd in mind was 40mm weber, forged pistons, t25 turbo etc.
also, would it be better to bore or better to stroke, or a bit of both. ive read sum info on it, and according to sum places they recon bore to 1320 and then stroke it to 1480. is this right?

There used to be a guy on here who has a 204HP supercharged A-series. I think he spent about $14K getting it to that point.

I think he built it himself, but once running took it to some shop with a dyno and said don't give it back until it's 200HP+.

I only saw it sitting on the floor, not running.

The most unusual thing I noticed was that in place of the normal tappet side covers was this big chunk of finned aluminum. Looked like a big heat sink. But he said it was there to brace the block. At above 170HP the whole block begins to flex that much that it was causing lots of blow-by past the pistons and so robbing power.

Impressive bit of gear. Don't think it would have been very reliable.

Like most, I'd say go the jap conversion route if you want that much power.

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"Life is not like a box of chocolates... it's more like a jar of jalapenos. Whatever you do today, may burn your arse tomorrow."

haha yes, jap conversion all the way, but im not going to start that till i got my engineering degree make the process of licensing and approving so much cheaper and easier. but for now, over the next 2 years b4 all that happens, im gonna do the 1275 block Metro Mini Turbo build-up. thinking bore to 1293, 10cc forged pistons, polished original conrods, ground and balanced crank, 40mm Weber, T25 turbo, intercooler, oil cooler, heavy duty clutch, appropriate rockers/spring/valves, and a custom exhaust manifold.
please if anyone opposes that idea, let me know. maybe not 150hp material but i would be happy with 120+, i think alot of tuning etc, will also make a differnce.
post thoughts
cheers

Webers (and Dellortos) are nice carbs but if going the turbo route, you are looking at a blow-thru system- I'd stick to an SU.
Only one guy I know of (Jukka) made a Dellorto work with turbo (eventually) and he's in Denmark or somewhere.
Weber- I've never heard of one turboed.

The path to power with a Metro turbo SU setup is well trodden.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Do some reading on the Metro turbo. I remember reading that is was carefully set up to limit the torque it could produce so that gearboxes would last the warranty period. The GB is the same as a normal mini so it is the limiting point if.
Your budget doesn't cover the cost of a strong gearbox filled with straight cut gears and a cross pin diff.
So you will need to exercise restraint, either with the power output of the motor or the flex in your right ankle. I couldn't drive sensibly when I was an engineering student, I wonder if you can??

there is a place called SU Midel that sell new SU turbo carbs for around $500. U will also need a intake plenum. where are u thinking of mounting the turbo. above the clutch housing or are u boxing the firewall. i would also call your insurance company before starting. i started gather up bits and peices for a similar project then found that i couldn't get it insured. t25 is a good choice turbo and is a popular upgrade in the UK.what do u intend to use the car for just a weekend hack or a daily driver. i wound give Graham Russel a call also. he will give u good advice on which engine parts to select. and will be able to bore the block for u he also has a turbo version of the popular RE13 cam.

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Doc you are forgetting the lotus esprit turbo blow through on twin 45 dellorto but have only seen 1 set of carbs for sale in the last few years and won't do huge boost

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Yeah I forgot to mention Jukka based his Mini one on the Esprit turbo design. He did get it to work good in the end, took him years though.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.