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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:50 pm 
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Sorry the pics are a bit dull :x ,But you can still see where all the changes are

Put the suspension on this morning hope to have the motor back in the frame 2morow :D


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:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 6:02 pm 
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Looks Great! can you still use the original mounting points for the lower arms? doesnt look like you have to fabricate to much.
Very nice conversion , good job


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 6:16 pm 
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Yes the lower arms fit in the original place, the drive shafts are pretty small comming out of the gearbox so minimal cutting in that area. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 7:02 pm 
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Beautiful work man, just beauitful.

Cant wai to see the rest of it altogether.

Cheers,
Andrew

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 7:49 pm 
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Thanks 007 Im on holidays soon so I will see how much I can get done

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 8:03 pm 
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Looks great, when you get the frame and engine into the car you'll have to post some photos, i'd like to see how it looks in the engine bay.

Dan


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 9:15 pm 
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GZ man that is brilliant and looks like such a neater conversion compared to the work required to get a starlet in. And to think I was was thinking about a K3VET Doh! Great work. Looking forward to seeing it in the Mini.

Well done.

Matt

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 6:05 pm 
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just found that the drive shaft spline on the sirion motor is the same as the mini and one of the shafts is almost the right length, the other is a bit longer :D :D :D :D

Minstar is the k3vet the mitsubishi 1litle or something different

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 6:56 pm 
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I'm no professional here, but I'd becareful with the drive shafts assuming they are the same as a mini one. I know people doing the Swift GTi conversion have thought the same thing with the GTi drive shafts. They apparently look almost identical, but actually arn't.. Which can be dangerous. I'm not sure you may be 100% correct, but maybe double check just incase.

If you're not going for huge HP then apparnently instead of getting costly driveshafts made up, some people have cut each drive shaft in half and welded them together. It will work if you do a decent weld job, but probably not for huge power.

Edit: Oh BTW that frame looks excellent! Very neat!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 7:43 pm 
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h0nk wrote:
I'm no professional here, but I'd becareful with the drive shafts assuming they are the same as a mini one. I know people doing the Swift GTi conversion have thought the same thing with the GTi drive shafts. They apparently look almost identical, but actually arn't.. Which can be dangerous. I'm not sure you may be 100% correct, but maybe double check just incase.

If you're not going for huge HP then apparnently instead of getting costly driveshafts made up, some people have cut each drive shaft in half and welded them together. It will work if you do a decent weld job, but probably not for huge power.

Edit: Oh BTW that frame looks excellent! Very neat!

Better method with Starlets I believe is cut to length, and respline outer end to suit Mini CV.
Don't weld it.. these things are high-strength steel, not MS.

ps Yes, I'm a welder... :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:46 pm 
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Quote:
Better method with Starlets I believe is cut to length, and respline outer end to suit Mini CV.
Don't weld it.. these things are high-strength steel, not MS.


Sorry im no drive shaft expert :oops:

Do you mean cut the excess length off the sirion shaft and respline to suite mini CV ,I would have get the shafts treated to become softer before any tooling can be done and then strengthened again, is that right?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:56 pm 
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gzeVan wrote:
Quote:
Better method with Starlets I believe is cut to length, and respline outer end to suit Mini CV.
Don't weld it.. these things are high-strength steel, not MS.


Sorry im no drive shaft expert :oops:

Do you mean cut the excess length off the sirion shaft and respline to suite mini CV ,I would have get the shafts treated to become softer before any tooling can be done and then strengthened again, is that right?

Yes, cut off excess.
No. Driveshaft splines are not that hard, they can usually be recut without heat treating the shaft.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 9:03 pm 
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Thanks Dr Mini :D :) :D

Ive got a mate who works at a driveshaft mob in bankstown, Hopefully he can come over and give us a few tips

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 7:58 am 
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Yeah I am pretty sure they turned down and resplined my Starlet shafts without heat treating. But the guy said he definitely needed the car to make the shafts exactly the right length, which makes sense...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 4:21 pm 
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again someone has set the bar for us others.... you make our life hard with such excellent craftsman ship. I like it alot


something to think about for you hp junkie converters....
when you use a drive shaft in HP applications, the shaft develops a certain twist to it.. the grain structure will change because of the torque moment placed on it......
for example.... if you bend ally one way, it will handle it ok... but bend it the other way or try to flatten out the bend and you can see cracking or tearing...
I have heard that when you respline shafts, the pros say to make sure that you use the right side drive for the right side drive.. and left for left... they will be stronger, and less prone to breaking.
Probably not going to happen in smaller HP apps, but the guys chasing the higher numbers may need to consider this if they have a dive shaft fail on the. But I would assume that they would have billets any way.

When you shorten your drive shafts, don't cut them with an angle grinder...

just one of those things that rattle around in my head


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