130 amps... ?
you will find that you can't weld anything higher then 6mm plate with satisfaction.
Cigweld make a good welder, but really don't get anything that is less then 160 amps.
Like said, better to buy a second hand machine for the same price as a new one.

check the duty cycle of your welder too.
things to look for.....
capacity for larger rolls....
cost of new tips.... and shrouds...
cost of new liners...
cost of new guns....
how well the wire feed unit is made and how it works,,
cost of new wire pressure and guide rolls...
I use a kemppi at work, they are very good machines, actually the last three places that I have worked have the same model... but they are worth 3k.
some migs have a spot weld function, as well as a tig/stick outputs.
from memory anything that is more then 175 amps in mig you will need a 15 amp outlet for the welder. Check to see what kind of regulator that you get. the cheaper kind don't tell you the flow of the gas so its hard to set it correctly (8-12LPM)
as already mentioned check how you adjust the voltage and the wire speed. dials are best.

stick welding is not that hard, but it is less forgiving then mig when it comes to fit up. An experienced welder will fill holes in stick as they are going....

gasless migs are like sticks, better suited to heavier sections and positional welding. (overhead, verticle ups etc)
gas migs are best for thiner sections.

and really, if you are going to modify your car, and weld your own frame, you should really know how to weld. GO LEARN. go to tafe... or something.
Like you said earlier that you were going to make your subframe strong, you better make sure that you trust your own welding. Just cos it looks pretty does not mean that it is a good weld.

When i was learning my teacher said:
if you were to weld a 1 inch square block to a 1 ton mass and then support the load from that 1 inch block, it will hold with 2 X 1 inch welds. if you think that it won't you need to learn to weld.
so if you want your 200hp turbo under your bonnet and travelling at 150 kms, I hope you don't second guess your welding.
blah blah blah........ pet hate this welding stuff...........sorry

i dont know how to migweld...but i've done a fair bit of stick welding...built my own forge with ducts and valves for controlling airflow from the bellows etc etc etc...and i am confident that my stick welding is atleast not total crap...i also have a stick welder i was thinking of getting into mig coz everyone says its easier and people seem to be using it for what i have planned...if when i am done with the subframe i even think for a second that its dodgy i'll get my mate's brother (a boiler maker by trade who does pro welding for energex these days) to make the final product...

i was looking at the tafe courses...but i missed this semester's run and was kinda hoping to get under way with this subframe before august this year (when the next course BEGINS)...

thanks for the advice there...that's pretty comprehensive in practice i wont be welding anything thicker than about 5mm (max) so a 130amp gmaw should do the trick right?

_________________
Bling me up Scotty!
"wait till it grows into a plant...then bunny rabbit THE PLANT!"

1966 Morris Mini DeLuxe FOR SALE

yes it will.
but try to get one that has the most adjustment on your voltage and wire feed.

I would really look for a second hand welder, then a newer one, if sub 1000 bucks but that is because I have a fair amount of experiece with welders from both ends of the scale.

yeah have been looking in trading post and on ebay...there was a pretty good transmig 190 on ebay that went for $455...but its in SA and was pickup only...

most of the tradingpost ones are either too small or bloody massive like $5000 welders...

_________________
Bling me up Scotty!
"wait till it grows into a plant...then bunny rabbit THE PLANT!"

1966 Morris Mini DeLuxe FOR SALE

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-SIP-Topmig-T ... dZViewItem

not a bad welder for the price (prolly go for about 800 bucks)

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Unimig-Mig-Welde ... dZViewItem

bargain, but might need a 415 volts tho
there are two of these machines on the bay at the moment.

hmmm not bad...if i am spending $800+ i will need 2 more weeks to save money for it

also the seller of the 2nd seems a bit dodgy...he doesnt sell very much and for one of the things he has sold he got a bad review...most of the crap he buys is pretty embarassing too toys and crap

_________________
Bling me up Scotty!
"wait till it grows into a plant...then bunny rabbit THE PLANT!"

1966 Morris Mini DeLuxe FOR SALE

I use gas MIG, but have used gasless years ago- a consideration not mentioned here yet is health issues.
Breathing fumes from gas MIG is not good, but those generated with gasless wire are much more dangerous. Most contain fluorine and other nasties. There have been rumours about outlawing their use, overseas.

Whichever you use, try and stay out of the plume of fumes....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah same with stick welders...the electrodes emit some pretty harmful stuff (manganese if i remember correctly) that collects in the body and can cause parkinson's like symptoms later in life was thinking of getting a respirator before really getting stuck into the subframe

_________________
Bling me up Scotty!
"wait till it grows into a plant...then bunny rabbit THE PLANT!"

1966 Morris Mini DeLuxe FOR SALE

Hi Ina,

I own a Transmig (CIG) 135.

The reason I bought it was:
1. Totally portable
2. Windings are copper not aluminium (very important)
3. Gas and gasless
5. Takes 1kg spools as well as the miniture spools
6. Australian made therefore parts should be no problem.
7. Single phase 10 amp
8. Good quality Tweco handpiece

Ok, its only 135 amps. But I am not welding 10mm trailer beams with it, nor ever will be. Its fine for anything up to and including 8mm or so. And ok, its not stepless voltage, and the settings can be a little course. But it welds just fine.

Regarding gas and gasless. I would always buy a MIG capable of both. You need gas to weld stainless or aluminium (Argoshield) period. So this is always handy. I mainly use gasless. Why - because its actually cheaper. And dont worry about what people say about the splatter. Just buy a can of Chemlube anti-spatter spray and sray your job before you begin - the crap just wipes off. To me personally, I love gas MIG welding - the weld forms a lot better and doesnt distort the parent metal as much. But its true what Matt says about gasless - the weld is hotter therefore you get better penetration, but less control and more distortion on the thinner sections.

And yes - do a course - any course.

My $0.02

Andrew

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

any "el cheapo" cooking spray from Woolies will work just as well.
Will save you more than $0.02

Tweco are one of the best handpieces, and you can buy tips & parts just about anywhere.

_________________
Too many cars, and too little time.

was lookin around the net lastnight and found that i can get the transmig 165 for *only* (sigh...) $200 more than the transmig 135...the 2nd hand market is pretty slim at the moment...there are some OK items on ebay...but still not sure...$899 for the 165 over $699 for the 135...

as for courses that teach mig...not too many around...or atleast not that i could find, as i said; missed the boat on the tafe course, next one doesnt start till august ...was thinking of asking my mate's bro if he would give me a crash course in mig for a slab

_________________
Bling me up Scotty!
"wait till it grows into a plant...then bunny rabbit THE PLANT!"

1966 Morris Mini DeLuxe FOR SALE