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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 8:56 pm 
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Location: Concord West, NSW
Matt,

If you ring around Sydney and find one up here i can pick it up and drop it into you late this week or early next.

Dan


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:23 pm 
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Ah Dan mate, r u serious. Man that would be brilliant. As I say this is literally the last thing I need to sort out. Engineer is on side. Just finish his last request this arvo. Alright mate I will start ringing tomorrow and once I sort one I will PM you with the details.

Also anyone know what the deal with bonnet pins is. My question is can I do away with the bonnet latch at the front and just go bonnet pins (I suppose I could just ask my engineer :? )

Cheers

Matt

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:30 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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I'm pretty sure a pair of bonnet pins = one locking mechanism, so put 4 in and you can do away with the original.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 11:19 am 
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Matt,

Yeah I am serious,just let me know how you go.

Dan


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:48 pm 
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Well possibly some success. I pulled the thermo fan off the front of the radiator. This had occurred to me before but it was also mentioned by the engineer. The motor of the fan ends up blocking about 50% of the area exposed to the air flow.

Anyway took her for about a 15 minute spin around the place and she didn't get above a third. This wasn't stop start traffic but I guess if at constant speeds it can keep the car cool then once I have the thermo behind and the idle sorted then maybe a new radiator won't be necessary. I will take her for a longer trip tomorrow night to confirm things. But I think this may be the prob and if I can get the idle sorted I think I might be away...

Cheers

matt

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:19 am 
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yeh my fan is on the back of my rad drawing air in throught the rad. There is not much room behind the rad and frame so i had to modify one of the mounting points on the fan.

Matt are you sure your fan was kicking in when it goes to over heat?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:57 am 
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Brad, yeah I came to the same conclusion about mine. Basically the centre of the thermo fan (motor) covers a fair area and basically smack bang in the centre of where the most flow goes to. Given that my frame is similar to yours in that area I think I will have the same problem with the fan.

Also I took the bypass on the heater out as it was basically lock in the blocking position. Also the rad in the heater was completely block with what looked like black mud! So I think that will help things a little too.

As for the the fan I actually had it running constantly even though it was using the loom connection for the thermo fan? Still to cut a long story short I am faily confident that the rad will work especially once I stick the fan on the opposite side. Will take for long drive tonight to confirm. As stated earlier the biggest problem is the 1800rpm idle. Hopefully the second dyno guy can resolve this. Anybody got any ideas on the cause of this?

Cheers

Matt

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:24 am 
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minstar wrote:
Anybody got any ideas on the cause of this?


Try releasing the accelerator cable from the throttle body (at the throttle body end). You 'may' have made it too short. Its a 5 sec test but me be the cause.

Could possibly have something do with with the idle control valve thinking your a/c is on.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:29 am 
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striped 63 wrote:
Could possibly have something do with with the idle control valve thinking your a/c is on.


really? so if you dont have the plug on the loom that goes to the A/C plugged in it thinks its on?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:34 am 
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inazuma_x wrote:
striped 63 wrote:
Could possibly have something do with with the idle control valve thinking your a/c is on.


really? so if you dont have the plug on the loom that goes to the A/C plugged in it thinks its on?


No idea, was just thinking of some possible causes.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:52 am 
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You are supposed to short out the AC plug so that the computer thinks that it is still there.

Dan


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:48 pm 
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Dan, how do you short out the AC? I terminated them and removed the AC relays (buggered if I can remember which wires which? Anyway let me know as if I can sort this out with out having to have another dyno session that would be great.

Someone on Austarlet suggested it was a air leak which makes sense as before I blocked off the brake booster outlet the revs rose and fell over and over as the ECU tried to correct the mix.

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:22 pm 
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Well guys I took the Mini out for a run with just the radiator (no thermo whatsoever) and the thing didn't get above 1/2 and I was giving her welly up a hill. So I think removing the thermo from the front was obviously the problem. Also I adjusted the TPS and now she sits on 1150 -1200 rpm. Which isn't great but should do the job for the engineering test and rego. Will put the thermo fan back on once the radiator place has changed the outlets a little and givent the whole thing a flush. Have booked a dyno for Tuesday but may cancel it now?

Cheers

Matt

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au
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