G'day lads,
I have a mini K currently running rubber unis.. whats the best, and most economical way of changing them over to something more reliable and more user friendly??

or am i better to just keep a few spares on me?

cheers

-Cam

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found this on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=32072&item=4528309008&rd=1

I don't know if they are any good though

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

thanx for that!

i did see it last week i thought.. but couldnt find it again... only thing is i'd have to turn up sum more bits outa nylon or something...

thanx again

-Cam

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IS NOW BACK ONLINE AFTER SOMETIME..... SORRY TO ALL, FOR NOT REPLYING TO PM'S!!

A mini parts place may have them I don't know how available they are

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

new sets of those seem to pop up regularly - I look at them cos I always think they're talking hardie spicer type joints as per Cooper S.... IMHO clubbie pot joints are the most economical, but it's an engine-out conversion - Doc'll tell 'ya

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

ebay blockage don't know what you look at

But i can tell you that i run the nylon (?) ones with the needle roller bearings in them on the basher. had no problems with the stocko 998cc as far as strength goes, and they don't perish with oil leaking on them like the rubber ones. you should be able to pick them up from any of the mini places.

michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Pot joints are a good conversion but apart from changing driveshafts to ones with pot joints, the diff has to come out to change the output shafts to suit.

`QL5000' joints like Mickmini has are a bit over $100/pair from Karcraft etc. That's the easiest way to improve it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ahhhh, the diff has to come out too!

well that cancels my plans for a simple switch over tomorow
dammit.

looks like ill be sticking with rubber unis for now. And i had the pot join shafts all nicely set up!

A couple of years ago, my rubber boots got sliced and dirt in. I took em off and got new boots and regreased. But being a stinge, for some reason i only used 1 packet of the grease supplied on both! so ihad a spare grease packet left over.

gawd. shake head.

From then on, i noticed the car clunking when hitting a bump. So presumably they are not well enough oiled?? (at the time, i thought it was the shockers)

Can i just buy this grease for them in a tube? bearing grease??

I'm not sure Quintin Hazlett QL5000 steel/nylon ones are available. I emailed Karcraft and they didn't have any. They're not made, so any you find would be new old stock now. I got a pair for the 850 recently, yet to fit them. They're getting rarer by the day, and it's a bolt-on job rather than replacing other parts.

Having said that, the rubber ones aren't bad, assuming you don't have a 1275 with nitrous...

I can't find the QH ones any longer on either MS or MM sites.
I believe they were upgraded to QL5001 but they are no longer there either.
The U/J inside them is a Triumph TR6 so if you are feeling enterprising, get a lathe and some nylon and make yer own...

Pot joints are the go, but as said the diff needs to come out to swap to pot joint type output shafts which are a bit different.
Driveshafts are different too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

which output shafts and side covers do the hardy spicers use? Same as pot joints or different again?

Hardy Spicer (S) output shafts and flanges are the same as pre- pot joint MiniMatics. But `matic side covers are a different shape.

Hardy Spicer output shafts are bigger, with a tapped hole in end- the side covers are bigger in the centre and have a 1/8" bigger dia bush and seal.
S side covers are NLA in UK, but MM are getting them made stateside.

Some later side covers here had more meat around the middle part, these can be machined out and the S bush & seal fitted. I've done a few.

ps. I've heard M1500 side covers can be made to fit but they are rocking horse dung now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just for interests sake... the QL5000s are NLA, the tooling required to make them (in the UK) was damaged and there are apparently no plans to fix it. Hence no more nylon unis I know this because I have one (1) QL5000 left at work and can't order another one to make a set.

With my upcoming 1275 I have the option of pot joints or hardy spicers. How much of a PITA are the hardy spicers to remove when taking the engine out? Pot joints require breaking the ball joints etc, rubber unis require lots of swearing and blood loss, what about the hardy spicers?

Ease of removal is the main thing that's making me think about trying HS joints - four bolts each side and you're away. I thought pots could just be 'popped' out of the diff with the right tool? (rather than breaking the joint)

I've been searching for nylon uni's and everybody I've phoned says there waiting for shipment. I've ended up going for the rubber (English) ones, but have been waiting weeks for them to arrive. I'm picking them up from the post office today so hopefully I'll get to intall them at the weekend.

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