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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:25 am 
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Aaron, for what reason do you want a clear coat over a base colour?

You can buff a base colour up to a great shine, without needing clearcoat.

IMHO a clearcoat should only go over a metallic colour.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:32 am 
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to protect the paint from chips whilst doing motorkhana's is esentially the reason.

Cheers

Aaron

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:35 am 
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OK, but I think you will find that your black duco will look MUCH more scratched and marked, as the black under the clear will highlight all these imperfections in the clear. (imprefections that you WILL get doing Motorkhana's)


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:37 am 
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So just lots of coats of black is your suggestion. 2pac would be the option if i get it painted, it is harder yeah. But acrylic just lots of coats?

Cheers

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:53 am 
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yep. Each to their own....I was talking to a guy at a recent show, who had painted a Chev Impala in acrylic. Iw was amazing!!

He said he did a zillion coats, which was enough to cut it back heavily to get a super smooth surface to buff.

If I end up painting my GT, I will use 8 litres of colour, not 4.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 10:54 am 
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J_A_M wrote:
If I end up painting my GT, I will use 8 litres of colour, not 4.


how the hell can you put 8 litres of color on a mini?

i struggled to get 4 litres on, including painting inside floor and underneath :shock:


-Cam 8)
P.S every car ive painted has been in 2pack, i use concept brand.. with either a concept top coat or a wattyl colorthane item.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:03 am 
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I used 5L on JAM :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:21 am 
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I had a similar dilemma (as some already know) but I had already purchased the 2k as I had someone lined up to spray...

I have done alot of research and spoke to alot of well known professional sprayer/beaters in the last week and the majority are still using acrylic!

I had to use Standox paint as they were the only company that had a code for my UK colour :wink: Was dearer but definately not as dear as $500/4L as someone previously posted..


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:28 am 
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fruity wrote:
I had to use Standox paint as they were the only company that had a code for my UK colour :wink: Was dearer but definately not as dear as $500/4L as someone previously posted..


i bought 4 litres of cncept hi-build, hardner and a 4kg tin of K&H bog.. came to $165 the other day... got 4 litres of colorthane post office red, hardner, slow reducer, thinners... came to $165 aswell :lol:

i like it!

-Cam 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:17 pm 
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Yep, low n'blown told me 8L of acrylic. He has used that a number of times building his show minis. Leaves lots of room to cut back and get a good shine.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 3:50 pm 
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:?:

JAM,
As a novice considering my first attempt at spray painting, it's a genuine Clubman GT- Cadiz with navy interior, and I dont want to stuff it up.

A few questions.

If you put on 8 litres of acrylic laquer:

How many coats?
How much thinner etc do you use for each coat and do you vary the amount of thinning for different coats?
How do you balance all this paint with the requirement to keep the total paint coating thickness as thin as possible? As I understand it thick paint coatings are more susceptible to chipping and in some instance too thick a coating can actually change the definition of crease lines etc on panels.

Thanks in anticipation.
RonR


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 4:00 pm 
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hey all

2 pac is by far the better choice, that is if your going for shine. 2 pac can be"thrown" on and get a reallygood shine
wheras acrylic takes time to get the shine.
the best two paints are standox and ppg. both are well worth the money. its not worth using the cheap paint.

im painting my mini in ppg base colour, standox krystal clear and primer :D :D

it will look schmick

cheers jamie

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 8:10 pm 
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miniron wrote:
If you put on 8 litres of acrylic laquer:

How many coats?

PAINT TILL YOU RUN OUT (BUT KEEP A SMALL AMOUNT FOR TOUCH UPS) YOU WILL END UP DOING A LOT OF COATS!

How much thinner etc do you use for each coat and do you vary the amount of thinning for different coats?

MIX AS PER INSTRUCTIONS ON CAN. USE A LITTLE MORE THINNER THE CLOSER YOU GET TO FINISHING. THIS 'BLENDS' THE COATS.

How do you balance all this paint with the requirement to keep the total paint coating thickness as thin as possible? As I understand it thick paint coatings are more susceptible to chipping and in some instance too thick a coating can actually change the definition of crease lines etc on panels.

HMMMM.....HAVEN'T HEARD THAT BEFORE, SO CAN'T REALLY COMMENT. KEEPING PAINT THICKNESS UNIFORM IS ALL IN THE APPLICATION TECHNIQUE

Thanks in anticipation.
RonR

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 10:09 am 
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8)

Thanks again JAM,

Re the paint thickness bizzo, some/all ? body shops have some sort of thickness measuring device (electronic?) they use to determine this. A sort of development of the bog detecting magnet I suppose.
Not 100% certain but maybe important for the latest type paints etc.

Regards
RonR


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 10:36 am 
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I can't rmember the max thickness of paint (to long ago) but it is measured in microns, 150 seems to ring a bell, now the problem is if you try and make it to thick the paint will craze and blister, this is caused with acylic buy the thinners, every time you apply another coat the thinners sinks through the coats that are already there and if its to thick the top coats flashes off before the thinners has a chance to get out. 4-5 litrs is more tha enough to paint a mini inside and out, the old practice for show cars was to spray and cut and flatten between coats both undercoats and topcoats and keeps the paint thickness down to the required level.

Jon

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