hey guys can somebody tell me the diff's between the A series and the A+. i have a 1275A+ and would like to know how they are diff. also im planning on getting it worked shortly because oil rings are starting to go. what mods should i do to it while i have it apart. which cam, bore out to which size...reliability and power are what im after....two words that should but probly never work together with minis.
after reading these forums for ages i value your opinions
geoff

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

As I said in another post in this forum:
All Minis built in Oz had the A series.
The A+ came out in UK ~1980 I think, it was an updated version of the A series, with various detail `improvements'.
Many (most) A+ parts are interchangeable with A series, ie. can be fitted to earlier motors.

The very last of our 1275 Mokes got an A+.
We have one (now 1293) in Barney- here's a pic of the front of block. Note the different dizzy clamp, strengthening fins on block, alternator bracket moved towards fan..


Internally they were similar to any non-S 1275 (eg 1275LS) with the following added:
single row timing chain with tensioner
breather on timing cover
crank has rolled fillet radii on journals
conrods were lighter
oil pump was slot drive instead of spider drive
cylinder head porting was a bit better
dizzy driveshaft and dog was different, also dizzy was held in with a finger clamp (see pics above).
Carbs & manifold were different, someone else can fill in on that. Mine currently has twin HS4s on.
Metros in UK had carbs.
Later, in UK 1275 Minis got SPI then MPI injection for emission reasons.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thankyou for explaining that to me, i just got a "mini performance manual" the mini world/ haynes book. its a pretty good read.
what would you recomend i do to the engine to get 90hp? reliability is what im really after but with a bit more kick. all the usual mods have already been done to the car

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

some brittish gt's got the a+ block and box, but not the head.
a+ head has no bi-pass hose for the water pump,
a+ has larger valves
a+ has better porting
a+ pistons have thinner rings(-0.2mm?)(can be machined out or swapped for a series, as rings are hard to get)
a+ gears are finer to reduse noise, drop gears are diffrent, transfur housing is different.
(all can be swapped to a series if using a+ block and a box.
standard mg metro a+ (with a+ head) rated at arround 76bhp i believe.
my a+ is fitted with a pistons no troubles, the rods are significantly lighter than the standard metro 1275 rods.

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

oh, and in nz, and the uk, the points are really really expensive (i paid $32nz), they are apparantly specific to the moke(if you ask bosh) as most a+ engines got the electronic dizzy.

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

yeah ive noticed my gearbox doesnt make asmuch whine like my old a-series...i kinda miss it.
i have a metro turbo block, just dont have the turbo

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

is this the same with the 998 A+ motors?

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