you can raise the rear of the bonet by fitting spaces, thus also allowing better airflow aswell and opening up clearances,

same with my sc12 van, (when its finally all fitted!)

blake

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ausmini member 195

71K 'Kaye', KAZZ69's work in progress
66 panelvan, going no where fast...
71 MS75 toyota crown COUPE yes A COUPE!
76 ra23 celica wid 1ggte, GT3071r, 13.5@106mph with alot of spinin....

wheels keep on turnin!

Problem with that is if you lift the bonnet at the rear you lose pressure as air comes in the front and goes out the back for the air exiting the LH Guard where the radiator is.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

this is mainly a question for kazjim but all help is welcome. how did u plump the water and oil lines to the turbo and the drains and where are the pickup point from

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Hmm was just thinking about this thread...

before i answer, I've also got a bit more info.. someone asked what would be needed to convert a standard carb, and I answered pressureise the float bowl... - well i forgot something, you'd also need to do some jiggery-pokery to the vacuum chamber and slide mechanism.. mine is on Ball-bearings and is sealed with O rings.. not sure what other mods have been done....


Anyway, the question...

OIl, easy - T peice from oil pressure sender hole - one to guage, one to a barbed fitting - barbed fitting to rubber hose, rubber hose to inlet pipe on turbo...

Outlet was a bit harder...I made a plate to fit to the old fuel pump hole and brazed a piece of 1/4 copper pipe into it - a piece of 1/2" ID HEAVY-DUTY Hydaulic hose goes to just behind the engine - a piece of copper pipe sneaks behind my exhaust down-pipe (not a lot of room and very hot in there!!) and back to the hydraulic hose....then just to the outlet of the turbo - Make sure its downhill ALL THE WAY - no upsweeps anywhere - this will stop oil from coming out of the usual place and make it come out bad places in the turbo (like seals and such. . . )

Water - from Heater outlet pipe on lower radiator hose (get the heater-hose one.. not the straight lower hose) - to copper pipe (3/16" ID) all the way to turbo water inlet - water outlet to heater tap on Clutch side of head ! - easy-peasy !!

Wasnt all that hard now, was it ?

the nastiest part is that you now have a severe leak in your oil pressure system - even with a very fresh set of bottom end bearings and a new pump, i get about 30Psi HOT at idle but a nice stable 60PSI at about 3500RPM - it tapers down from there....the problem is that you have just introduced a leak into the system - you coule put a restricter in there if you need to, I've put on in since changing to a ball-bearing turbo, but it hasnt made much difference....

Good luck !
J

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i thought i might check with my insurance company before i invest even more money and the result is that they can't insure me. and noone can so the whole thing is off. thanks for all your input though

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Check out how we did ours. There is a subtle bulge in the bonnet, made from two round nose bonnets. A standard bonnet did fit but the engine heat made the paint blister. No paint probs with the bulge.








Cheers
Julie...............

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Julie.............