Bulb in the dash. It should come on with ign and go out when the motor starts and the alternator voltage climbs above 12V.

re. the head- a 295 head is good but getting scarce, and expensive. It's a lot of work to mod a 202 head properly, if you were not going to supercharge it I'd say go get a 1275 head, notch the block and use that instead. Fit unleaded seats if you want. Personally I still run Flashlube on my car.... but my wife's 1293 has had seats fitted.

Don't go too big on the cam- it's no good expecting a 1098 to keep revving above 7000 because the crank won't last. A 270* dutation cam is plenty, IMO.

But really if you want big power in the future, start off with a 1275.... they are stronger!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yea the bulb doesn't come on with the ignition anymore either, but it was when it all started at least for the first 20mins. I'll try and look at the bulb in the dash.

The mini is actually my save money car for the next 6months, sell the WRX and save to go oversea's for a year or two. So I'd like a bit more power without pouring too much money in, though if I do I'd just keep the mini and continue on it when I get back.

I was thinking about the flashlube instead, certainly sounds like a cheaper and cleaner option. How much does a stock 1100 rev to and what should a modded one be.

A 1275 head is like over $1000 right? I saw a 12G940 head on ebay at $150 (starting bid) what is one of these worth?

If I only want mild performance, should I get the head ported (does there need to be any specific instructions here) and have a mild cam (like the 270 you mentioned or maybe lower?)

Do you mean start off with a 1275 engine or just use a 1275 head?

When do I need to start thinking about forged pistons etc internals of the block?

Sorry to ask all these questions of you, if I'm bugging you just say and I'll leave it for a while. When I get obsessed with something I want to know everything.

You should be able to pick up a bare 12G940, or 12G1316 head (both are 1275s) for around $200.
Add around $250 for 8 new valves, $75/set for bronze guides, $100/set for valve springs, and another $100 or so for collets, valve caps etc.

Doesn't add up to $1000....!

These prices are local, you would save a bit if you bought them all in from MiniSpares UK.

Then you would want to clean up the ports a little, but to go on a 1098 you don't need much work.

You can port your 12G202 (1098) head, but it takes a serious amount of grinding to make it as good as a 295.
eg It takes about 24 hours solid grinding and machining to turn a 12G202 head into a full race one..

Ideal mild cam for a 1098 is probably a Kent 266, or a Tight 104 (270*). Graham Russell RE13 grind is a bit wilder, but will work too. (Bobtel is fitting one to his soon).

No you don't need forged pistons in a 1098. Sprite 9:1 pistons are good if you can get them. A 12G940 on a 1098 block with cutouts and a 1275 gasket is about 9.5:1. Ideal for hot street use.

What I meant about a 1275 was, if you want over 80HP with reliability, particularly for the track, get a complete 1275 motor to start with. It will cost no more to build up than a 1098 will.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

When I said over $1000 I meant for a 295 head (one of those rarer ones). I'm starting to think about the 12G940 head with a Graham Russell RE13 cam idea. What kind of Carby would you suggest with the 1098 with that head & cam (assuming extractors ??brand but mandrel bent and sports exhaust).

With the 1098 and a 1275 head can I get anywhere near 60HP (I'm guesing your talking at the wheels, with the need a complete 1275 to get over 80HP reliably). Do you have any idea of the power of a stock 1098 (@fly or wheels). Just curious.

Sorry to keep asking questions, I just like to get as much info as possible before deciding.

PS. How the hell do I get to the bulb in the dash, I could seem to get it from behind so started ripping off the front, I can see the bulb but it's wierd it doesn't seem to have wires to any of the bulbs AFAIK and I can't see how I take any of them out.

I was talking flywheel HP. HP at the wheels varies so much depending which dyno you go to and how they use it.

Stock 1098 is 48 or 50 HP at the flywheel, depending which book you read.

No way would I pay $1,000+ for a 295 head!

RE13 cam might be a bit hairy with 12G940 head on a 1098, Ring Graham and ask him.

I would use twin HS2 carbs. Maybe a 40mm Dellorto or Weber, if you can stand the noise (music)..

A 1098 with 1275 stage 2 head, a 270* cam, twin HS2s, I guess would probably have around 70HP at flywheel if built well. ie same or better than a 1071S.

I would get an LCB, either Maniflow med bore (UK) or Perry (Oz) if still made.

is this a Clubby or roundnose? If Clubby (sounds like it) the bulbs are powered by the printed circuit, just pull them straight out (carefully!) so you don't f*** the contacts.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If by clubby you mean Leyland then yes it is, I remember some sort of printed circuit. so pull them out from the front?

I like music so I think a 40mm Dellorto or Weber sounds like the go, I don't like the idea of tuning twins either.

What do you mean by "1275 stage 2 head" what's stage 2?

How much is a 40mm Dellorto or Weber approximately with any manifolds?

"RE13 cam might be a bit hairy"
I don't mind hairy but I guess that means need disks? or could I avoid that and run boosted drums (I've heard the term, is that running a bigger booster or duel boosters or something.) What should I budget for this (with me ripping heads and carby's off and giving them to machinist etc to port and put cams into). Is this a $1000-1500 job or a $2000-$3000 cause I'd like to go for more the first (shouldn't spend too much but want some fun/more grunt).

Thanks.

Paul.

Yes the bulb pull out towards the driver.

Stage 2- I mean slightly ported, to still use the stock 1275 valves, recut the valves & seats, back cut the inlet valves, fit a set of stock Cooper S valve springs, clean up the dags in the combustion chambers, polish but not too smooth, surface grind the head to clean up. You will have C/R of about 9.5:1 in a 1098.
You DON'T need oversized valves in this head for a 1098.

40mmDellorto S/H- how long is a piece of string? Probably $200+ unles you find a bargain.
Manifold to suit- $100-$200+ depending on how S/H it is..

`RE13 might be a bit hairy'- what I mean is, the power peak may arrive a bit high in a 1098 with this cam and head. And it may lose torque at low speed. Really you shouldn't rev a 1098 past 6500 for any length of time.. so cam it accordingly. A works 731 cam is not bad in a 1098. Kent 266 is OK, or ask Graham.
These heads do breathe better than a 202 head (or a 295!)

Drums are fine if in good condition. If you can't afford discs at least overhaul what you have- new wheel cylinders, machine the drums, new shoes to suit. A servo will NOT make it stop faster, it will only reduce pedal force.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I feel a little disheartened that about $1000+ to do the 940Head and exhaust and 40mm Webber/Dellorto will only give me 20-25HP at the fly, seems like alot of money for not much increase. I know my starting cost of my WRX was $30000 but $1000 gets you about 20KW ATW and it only takes $200 for a pod filter to get 20HP ATW. I guess the motor is detuned and just needs tweaking which the 1100 isn't.

I still would like a supercharger but shouldn't spend that much when I plan to go to the UK in 6 months. Will the head work and exhaust give my mini a good kick compared to what it's like now?

Yeah, but with the WRX, its got inbuilt restrictions on a good engine. take the restrictions away, and its still the same engine but goes harder. Fuel Injection, and an ECU can make a lot of difference when ya fiddle with em.

Since ya dont have any of that on a mini, ya gotta work for every bit of HP ya can get with more classic methods. As well as being an engine thats about half the size of the WRX's, it's about 60 years older in design.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

I realise that, I just wished I could spend a $1000 and then get a monster (using power to weight). Maybe I need to focus on the weight side, don't need those back seats.