thats crazy talk. twins are a PAIN in the ass. GO THE weber or del. thats what I am doing.. no more twin for me EVER

The guy i bought it off said it had only been bored 40 thou...


I have some photos, but for the life of me i cant work out how to post them on here, what am i doing wrong???

Look here- http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=86794

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i had twin 1 1/4 SU's and they were great. i put on my 45 dcoe and it leaks fuel. so i rebuilt it. and it leaks fuel. but the cars does go harder with the weber

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Have you checked fuel pressure, Webers don't like it too high.. if it is, fit a regulator.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

maybe dumb question but arent webbers essentially twin carbys and if so why are they so much better to tune and keep that way then twin su'

Because on a Weber DCOE carb,
1. The 2 throttles are on 1 shaft, there is no linkage.
2. They have fixed jets & emulsion tubes, not sliding needles etc which are prone to wear in the jets.
3. There is only 1 float chamber, in the middle, so fuel levels are equal to both lots of jets.

So, once jetted properly they stay in tune well.
Same goes for Dellorto DHLA, & Solex PHH.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok,

Fitting sleeves takes some practice. I use to fit them to HP engines and they are sometimes better then casting finished bores (better material, hone stability, low porosity). If the block is already over bores then the machinist will have to move the machine centre closer to the ends of the block when boring for the sleeves. A good practice is to leave a step at the bottom of the block bore to sit the sleeve onto and stop the sleeve dropping/extruding - it really happens. Set up correctly the sleeve bore should just clean up the 2/3 bore junction and with a large bore and thick sleeve you can really get some good offset, then the piston bore can be placed in a number of positions within the thick sleeve.

As for carbs, go the weber but fit the anti vibration mount or it will "leak" = froth petrol, a trap for the uninformed. If your running a european made pump you should be ok but the Yank and late Jap non injected ones run higher PSI = 6+ when you want a consistant 4 and consistance is the key. I had a 6psi electric rear mounted that read 2 at the infeed on the float bowl.

when I went around the other day i couldn't find a ruler or measuring device of any description, so i came back empty handed. one thing that i did note though was that there was at least 4mm of metal between 2nd and 3rd cyl... will this give me the space for a 20thou, or even a 40???

as mentioned by someone else the gap between 2 qand 3 was smaller than the rest.

The other sad and bothering news is that the scoring that I originally thought was only in one cylinder is ctually in 3. (2nd, 3rd, 4th)

Do i just start searching for a new block???

Nah, just bore the bastard to 73mm and use Hypatec pistons (1360cc with stock stroke) and you can do this (and to 1380cc later) without offsetting the bore.
Pistons have a thick crown so can be re-machined for a stroker too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

regarding carbs, I went from twin 1 1/4" SU's to a 45DCOE weber, but I can't say from experience that the weber is better because I changed too many other things at the same time. From what I read though (eg Vizard) twin 1 1/4's are too small for a worked 1275 and the weber goes great and sounds great.

As for SU's though I read an article in Mini Magazine (March 2005 p116) where Keith Calver took an 8 day trip to Sydney to do some R&D with Graham Russell and he reckoned that twin SU's performed better than a weber (and better than a big single SU) - I assume they mean twin 1 1/2 SU's not 1 1/4 but it didn't actually say. He said in the article that he would follow up this research with more testing and release his results - anyone seen these results anywhere? I couldn't find anything in 'Calver's Corner' on minispares.com or minimania.com. Has G.R mentioned anything about it?

Geoff,
They actually were twin HS6s on a modified Maniflow steel manifold.

BTW, GR gave KC one of his 5" Weber DCOE manifolds to take home, and on the dyno it demolished every UK Weber manifold they compared it to.

We're now running twin HS4s on Barney (1293 A+)... Tighe 104 (270*) cam & Toyota Corolla rockers- yeah it goes well, but just doesn't get out of Dodge the way my 1360 and 45 Dellorto does!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

from what i hear. twin 1 1/2 su's are great when tuned properly. but get out of tune easily. wheras the webber stays in tune pretty good due to the reasons listed in this thread.

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If only milk and orange juice is meant to come in 2 litres, only cheap wine comes in 5 litres...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13922833@N04/

If twin SUs are not worn they stay in tune pretty well. But, if throttle shafts are loose in the body.... you will never get it right.

A Weber or Dellorto has real ball bearings on the throttle shaft which don't wear out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.