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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2005 12:13 am 
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998cc
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thanks Justminis. I'll go the bigger bore and make sure I have the proportioning valve, if not will add one, then the brakes should be spot on. I would have been happy with the existing M/C pedal if it remained firm, but a harder pedal would be even better :P

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 1:21 pm 
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998cc
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well, it turns out that the replacement master cylinders Anton has are only made for single circuit brake systems. Has anyone upgraded their later model dual circuit master cylinder with another Mini item (I dont really want t use a m/c out of another car unless its a simple transplant)

thanks if you have any info

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 8:41 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Jill I had a spongy, creepy-down pedal in Barney (with late Clubby MC & S brakes) and got a PBR seal kit fitted to the MC. It's perfect now.
Any brake repair place can get these kits still. Around $35. :D

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 1:21 am 
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998cc
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thanks doc, will take it to my local brake guy and ask him to do it. Im (fairly) sure its been kitted when I got my brake upgrade, can I ask the brake guys to resleeve it? Would that make SURE it stays fixed?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 6:58 am 
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Jill,
It's a cast iron cylinder, they really don't pit like the alloy ones do. Have a perve inside it with a torch, when it's stripped. But yes it can be sleeved with brass or S/S if needed.

BTW these Clubby tandem MCs are a bastard to get the top piston out of- I took mine to B&R Brakes and got them to put the kit in too. 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 11:57 am 
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998cc
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thanks for that. I have a friend who had volunteered to do the job, but I think Id better get the brake guys to do it all.

Im still trying to track down a seal kit (or replacement M/C) from Perth Brake Parts, Minicraft and Karcraft, hopefully one of them gets back to me soon. My local brake guy didnt want to try and find one ("we're too dear"), told me to go to Minicraft :roll:
but I'll take it to him when I get the kit or M/C, he can put it in :)

Edit: Karcraft just got back to me
"We used to stock complete master cyls until they became no longer available.
We also stocked the kits to repair them until they were also made no longer available."

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 12:55 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Contrary to assertions by some, I found these repair kits are still available here in Oz, from Better Brakes and others.
I just got one fitted.
PBR # is K7800X. around $33 each. :wink:

Pete

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 12:57 pm 
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*hug*

Thankyou! :)

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 7:35 pm 
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Yeah sorry Jill, I knew I had posted that somewhere, couldn't remember where.. :oops:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 11:38 pm 
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998cc
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No worries ;)

but I have a Yay!
Perth Brake Parts in Perth, WA:
Email [email protected]

WE HAVE KIT IN STOCK $37
ALSO HAVE EXCHANGE MASTER CYLINDERS $205

I think I might go an exchange one :)

I havent found my "proportioning valve" yet, can it also be leaking or losing pressure?

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www.crazybitchracing.com


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 7:06 am 
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If the car has the late brake MC it's probably got that later `proportioning or limiting?' valve thingy on the firewall. Below the MC...
I don't think kits are available, they either work or don't. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 3:51 pm 
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when I did a test lock-up on gravel, all four wheels locked up at the same time as best as I could see.
That doesnt worry me at all, but ideally the rears should lock after the fronts. Im not particularly worried about the proportioning valve just yet, will be happy to have a firm pedal that stays firm... I ordered a master cylinder this morning.

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www.crazybitchracing.com


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 12:16 am 
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998cc
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it looks like my master cylinder may have been ok, but the brake lines werent the same thread as the rest. There was a mix of imperail and metric threads and the lines were just hanging on apparently. :shock:

My pedal is now worse than before but Im hoping another decent brake bleed will keep the pedal up. I get a nice pedal after pumping but only half a pedal after driving it for a short while.

I complained to the brake guys who installed it and they said leave it for a few days the pedal might come up.... yeah right :roll:

I have to return "a" dual circuit master cylinder (mine was exchange), anyone got a no good to anyone dual circuit M/C lying round. Id like to keep mine as theres a good possibility its ok.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 6:57 am 
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Jill, the tandem MC and the valve on the firewall ARE Metric threads. All the other brake stuff is imperial. Weird, eh... :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 9:49 am 
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998cc
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Location: Brisbane, West Siiede
All i can say is when you get it all set up bleed them the proper way as someone who bled my tandem master cylinder type bled like they do for a single and the valve got jammed in the cylinder tht allows fluid to the back brkes
apparently when there is a failure in the backs or fronts this valve shuts making sure you have at least either fronts working or backs and when you bleed wrong it thinks there has been a fault and jams shut then its cactus :cry:
drip bleed the duals


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