G'day
Just after some info from you experts on what Flywheel i should go with...
Im running a A+ 1275 probably bored to a 1293 or 1330... I will be running a Button Clutch too take the power but i've also been told that they are brutal on flywheel... What are my options???
Also going to run some 1.5-1 Roller Rockers, was going to but some mini spares ones off ebay but i've been told i can get toyota ones and modify them for much cheaper... Why are the Toyota ones recommended for road use and whats involved to modify them?
Cheers,
Daniel

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MOKE'N

Re the flywheel for a button clutch- a light steel race one is probably best.
Re the ToyoMini rockers have a read of this.. http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3829

As far as 1.5 roller rockers go, you get what you pay for. The forged MiniSpares rockers are stronger than `cheap' roller ones which have been known to break with big cams, or wear flats on the rollers.
Of course if you are shelling out $800 or so for Titans or Cranes or something that's different..

<edit> KC did this article on the different rockers a while back. Interesting....
http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

How much power do you expect this engine to make and what will you be using it for? An orange (or grey) diaphram with bonded/riveted AP Racing plate will cope with 130 - 140 HP without any problems.
I do not like the light steel one piece flywheels as they "can" weld/fret themselves to the crank and be a complete pain to get off. Not worth the grief IMO. Depends if you want to turn very high revs, the you do need to think about a safe flywheel.

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Steve

After running a button clutch in my Fiat 124S years back I would never use another, in a road box. Plate is heavy- the extra inertia slows the shifts and wears hell out of the synchros. I was glad to take it out...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The Motor is going in my moke
I was expecting a power output of around 110 HP but that was before i decided to go for a scater cam, 1.5 rollers and a few other little bits n pieces. Was going to run a weber but now just going to stick with a 1 and 3/4 Hiff44.... This motor will only be used for road use so im just tryinh to figur out what set up is best for the flywheel, clutch and 1.5 rollers... Russel Turrner is building my motor for those who know him.
Not sure if i like the idea of a button clutch for road use either but russel said its the best clutch for the power out put i have..... any one think diferently?
This motor is getting a full bebuild and is costing me a crap load so i dont want to take any shorcuts that i will reget in the future..... but keep in mind a dont have a money tree

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MOKE'N

I'm with justminis' diagnosis-
An orange or grey diaphragm with a bonded & rivetted plate is heaps.

Boostedmini has around 140HP and a mountain of torque from his 1360 stroker turbo, and has no clutch probs now it's been set up properly.

I've got around 120HP at crank with my worked 1360 and no problems either, I'm using an orange diaphragm and B&B stock clutch plate. But I don't drag it...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

For your flywheel, find a 2 piece stock flywheel, the one with the replaceable centre, and lighten this. Is easy, just face off .200" and then have spacers made up .200" high to place drive straps back to original location. Will need rebalance. It is important to set up the flywheel/clutch properly.
My 1330 race engine ran scatter cam, 1.5 rollers, 45 Weber etc, used orange diaphram with bonded & riveted plate and absolutely no problems in over 3 years of abuse.

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Steve

So if i use a good plate i can stay away from the button clutch?
Are the stabdard clutch and button clutch the only 2?

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MOKE'N

when the term button is used it is refering to the clutch plate itself.

the diaphram is the cover or spring if you like

as Justmini's and DOc have said go a std plate or road race and a orange shoudl be ok but a grey to be sure if you like that will hold any N/A motor

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

There are 3 clutch plates that are any good for a big motor-

Standard Borg & Beck plate HB8017 $50.35
Competition plate- (AP Racing) CP2084-41 $174.79
Competition plate- (Cerametallic) CP2599-4 $468.67

These prices are 6 months old and may have gone ^.

Hey it's your money, but I'd take the 1st for road use and the 2nd for racing/rally.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.