I rang a jap parts place who said they had an N12 D4R83 dissy... when I went there to look at it, they had written on it: "N12 83" but I checked the number stamped near the vacuum, and it said:

D414 - A8
A3603 (ISO)

Just wondering if this is the right one?

I found a site which has info about it:

http://www.cth.com.au/dualfuel/ADOCATALOG.htm

(Scroll down to the nissan section under pulsar - or click ctrl+F and search for D414)

Thanks,
Alex

D414 is a points dizzy. No, you don't want one of those..
Correct one has 2 screws holding cap on. But D414 has clips.. I think they were on early N12 motors.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The """D4R83""" is stamped into the side of the dizzy housing,,,it`s not the year of the car



& i use a D4R81-08

You have to be very carefull when selecting these types of dizzys,,,the wrong one will burn you,,,way too much advance on some of em, especially the D4R85 model,,,just have it checked before you fit it & if it does swing up way too much advance , then have the stopper re-positioned & the weights & springs modded/swapped to make it swing up to what you need for your particular engine combo

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Must say these Hitachi dizzys are beautifully made. Even after 200,000 Km there's no slack in them. Unlike a new Lucas...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have 2.

D4R83-39

and

D4R83-40

Both pretty much the same.

Ahh ok cool, I didn't actually buy it till I checked here.. Thanks

Also is the coil had R31 written in pen on it... is this the right one? It has bosch stamped on the top.

Thanks

Sorry for all the questions but I've got more

I got a D4R83-39 today.. seems in tip top condition.. I got the dizzy, coil and new leads for $60..

When I take the current dizzy off the mini, can I just remove it.. Or do I have to do it the proper way (in the manual it says you have to turn the engine until piston 1 is approaching TDC - I'm guessing this is to keep the timing)?

Turn it over until just before TDC with the rotor pointing to #1 plug lead. With points just opening. Put in 4th gear and handbrake on.

When you fit the Pulsar one, twist the dizzy until `#1" lead position is in line with the rotor. Try to start it, twist it around until it runs. You will need to use a strobe timing light to set it properly, U can't static time it.

Full details on modding the dizzy to fit are on a thread in here, or on J_A_M's site.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

on the d4r83 39 does anyone know what the advance in this dizzy is, and what sort of static timing @1000rpm would you run on a stock 1100,
thanks

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

No, I don't know what the advance curve will give you at 1000 rpm, but a
D4R83 has 16* total centrifugal advance (that's dizzy degrees..).
I would use 10* at 1,000 rpm to start with. Advance it a bit more after a run, and see how it goes.
The number at the end, `-39' in your case- is I think the vacuum canister model. No idea what it means.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

what happens if you time and engine to after top dead centre or is that just a stupid question

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

Depends what the advance curve in dizzy is... If I renmember correctly the early Mk1 Cooper S 1275 was static timed at 3* ATDC.

What really matters for max power is what the max advance point is, from 4,000 rpm (where advance normally ceases) up. Around 30* is typical for a well modified Mini motor.
But you need to experiment to see what your motor needs.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have a couple of questions aswell, whilst at a pick-a-part esque place looking for an alternator, i found a pulsar with a dissy numbered D4r80-something something, is that a correct one? it was on a N12 pulsar but not a fuel injected one.
Also apon checking my dizzy on my clubman, i noticed that the cap has 2 screws holding it on, i didnt take it off as i have no idea what the difference in looks between a points and electronic is. I looked for serial or model numbers but they must be on the underside. Could someone possibly post a pic of both dizzys (points & electronic) with their caps removed so i can see what they look like and what one i have installed.
thanks
trent

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D4R81 & 82 were electronic dizzys used in N12 Pulsar overseas.
Not sure about D4R80.
If it's on an N12 Pulsar and has a cap with 2 screws, grab it.
The Pulsar points ones all have clips instead.
Electronic one has no cam or points under the cap, instead it's got a 4 pointed star thingy that goes past a brown coil pack with 2 wires on it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Another thing about these dizzys is to look out for too much 'gunk' in them - they might need to be cleaned before using them. I ended up getting mine fitted by Automotive Tuning Centre when they did my dyno tune - he regraphed it but said that until he pulled it apart and cleaned it out it wouldn't advance at all until about 2500rpm - maybe something to check if you have any problems...
also I had trouble with leads rubbing on the grille so i cut down the extra-long posts on the dizzy cap and no problems since...

Geoff