Well after long thought, I have decided that I'll bolt the head onto the existing engine. Not going to put in a RE13 cam just yet as the process is too much work (worste of which is countersinking the timing plate to fit the double row timing gear with the engine in the car).

Needless to say Kev talked me out of it just for now anyway as I would also need to grind my existing 1098 pin drive cam, then I will most likely do it again in 12 months for the 1275 spider drive cam... rather save the money and try out the GR head.

Anyway had a good look at the GR head this afternoon and boy! did i score a good head! Unleaded valve seats, new valves, new double springs, ports well worked out... this is no ordinary head! I think either both the inlet and exhaust valves have valve stem seals, or both inlet and exhaust valves don't have them at all... Very hard to tell with double springs installed...

Anyway Kev reckons the head has been skimmed quite a fair bit which will mean high compression too. I have only now realised how much work has gone into this head and only now realise how BIG of a prize this head was! Thanks Graham Russel!

I am totally pumped to put this head on! I wonder how much HP she will make with the new head on... it will be interesting to dyno Lillee afterwards but I don't think I will get a chance to dyno her in her current state.

Anyone want to go for a drive in a stocko 1098 with a 45 Dellorto? last chance cause this week sometime, she will be Modified 1098 with Dellorto

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Yep, congratulations Chong, you got a good `buy' there.

That 295 head has had some serious work done. It was going into GR's van, but it succumbed to the rust monster before motor and box were ready.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I had a good look at the head proir to the Luck door was done...it has had a far bit taken off and the compression will be high. It would be intersting to see what the cc of the head would be.
That was a top prize and will do wonders for Lilly.... inwhich I had some plains for it
I must say I could not think of a better engine for it to go on.
I'd love a ride in Lilly before it goes in

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I'll let you know when I cc it. Head has had about 0.100" off.
Should go nice with stock dished 1098 pistons..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thats around the same as Morris.,..i Believe

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Nope, Morris has had about .080" off. I measured it last time.
But that's a 202, not a 295 like this which has bigger chambers.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK I have had a good look kev...

1) I have bolts not studs holding the head down in the current stocko 1098. Is that good or bad? is that how it came from the factory? Does that mean it will be easier to clean the block face?

2) My intake manifold nuts where loose!!! Like really really loose... did we either forget to do them up last time or have they worked themselves free?? is that even possible? is this a worry?! Anyway I tightenned them up...

3) The new head has a thermostat in it (I did some probing with a cable tie and there is a thermostat down there ) Anyway I realised that I have to remove the thermostat housing either way as I have a rod change and the engine steady bracket will need to sandwich in between the head and the housing.

4) there are definately valve stem seals on the intake valves and no stem seals on the exhaust. I am 100% sure. They look new too. In fact, the head really looks BRAND NEW

5) The bypass hose is a belows type hose. We definately need to replace that with a proper one.

6) Bring your big socket set over and a ball bearing (if you have any), I'd really like to sort out the oil pressure thing with the new head on

That's about it... I will remove the head on Saturday or there abouts...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

1098 came out with bolt to secure down on the block...After I broke a Bolt I replaced them all with Studs and nuts from Lee's in North Parra.......but this was only due to Hydroing the Bolts (oil in the holes when doing the bolts up...but it could also have been due to the stretched bolts...I have spares just in case also...I may pop them over to Dr's tomorrow for you

Exhuast studs I dont belive should come undone...but I guess it could be possible

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Well well, I have head studds galore here... ARP ones I think... or std factory type from the 1100S engine. Will they fit?? Should I put studs on instead of bolts? If so what type of nuts do I need to buy? do you have any spare? Is this enough questions for one post?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Thanks for the offer Jim, but if my 1275 head studds will fit then all I will need is nuts... Cheers Moit!

Man I am sooo excited

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Do the studs and Nuts...Much better and safer thats why I did it

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Cool chong, sounds awesome, will be good to see the 1098 in it's prime. You'll have to bring lilly to the creek for a run..someone's gotta beat marcia

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

MOrris thats correct becouse PJ can't

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Don't forget when you go to put the new one on that it will probably need two gaskets (one either side of the steady). That's how it is on mine at least - my steady is an aftermarket job.
KB