Big willy, my reason for the hybrid motor was, in no particular order, reliability, power, 5 speed (my A series used sit on about 3-4K rpm at 110), and efi/unleaded. I think as reliability goes the Toyota donks are pretty legendary. But I am keeping the 1275 as I wouldn't mind having a Mini with the "Orginal" engine. For performance I think you can do alot to the A series but there are limitations, that don't exist with a modern 16v engine...My 2C.

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

If you want more power, newer technology, better gearbox, just buy a new car.

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Jonathan
http://photobucket.com/albums/y64/FatMaserati/

But then it wouldn't be cool

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Too many cars, and too little time.

yeah i agree with the "hybrid theory"

i think bmc/leyland/rover should have updated the power plant long ago...

think how many more races/rally's could have been won by the mini had it had the guts to compete with more advanced cars like twin cams and more powerful cars like v8's and porsches..
also they should have gone to 12's a lot earlier to increase braking..

i have no problem with giving the mini the balls to still remain alive competitively

Good call

The A series motor has history, and has had some serious development over the years.
I still find it amazing that the 1st A series in ~1951 (Austin A30) was only 803cc, it had a whole 21? HP. A 1275 block is the same length and width, just 10mm taller.
N/A race 1300cc motors now are getting over 150HP (at crank) with or without 8 port heads. And people can get the 1275 blocks (same length and width) out to near 1600cc! That's near double the original.

BTW there is bugger-all physical difference really between the old original 803cc head, and a 70s Clubbie 998. But the 803 head had no temp gauge sender hole- it didn't need it!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It's a means to an end, Money and time will define what to put under the hood.

A Question:
When is an A Series not an A series?
BMW head injected Turbo
Civic Distributor or ECU driven
Gemini starter
Triumph pistons

is this an "A" Series?

Of course it is! Just `upgraded'......

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yep,,,it`s still an A series engine

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

That's like saying a SCAT is a VW Sorry I couldn't resist.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

If there hadn't been a VW market there would be no SCAT goodies..
Yeah it's good stuff- we built a few engines with it in back in 1970.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

TheMiniMan:
JEZUS F%*kin Christ!!!!! how you gona drive that thing!!??!?! v8+turbo+front-wheel drive!?!?!?! jeeeeeeeez!!!!! you must have some damn good throttle control!!

cant wait to c a clip of it goin!!1


I cant get over that......


big willy: yea a toyota 4efte conversion would give un-matched reliability and power with bugger-all fuel consumption for what it is, its a wikid bag of fun in a starlet, but a car 300kg's less?

i think i wet my pants.....

But in your favour, i agree a mini isnt a mini without an A-series

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68' Morris, 1100,

Willson Automotive
Tasmania's ONLY mini Specialists
(03) 62725056

http://photobucket.com/albums/a323/the_white_one/

[quote="SnoBall[quote]

what sort of profile is your Waggott Cam Sno??

I posted profile details on here a while back........

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"Show me the Mini!"

Hi Chris,

With my decision to do a 4EFTE conversion it came down to pure financial logic.
My smoky A-series was in desperate need of a full overhaul at 120k miles.
To get this done and to convert to ULP would have cost me about $2000
And what would I have got for my $2000? An engine designed in 1949, and since
then not upgraded in any way (at least in Australia) with a massive 60hp at the
flywheel.

Instead, and thanks to pioneers like Brad and Matt, I have chosen the hybrid route.
I paid $1700 for my Starlet half-cut, and it will pobably cost me about another $500-750
to get the thing in and going. So what do I get for my $2500? A modern, efficient reliable, economic and environentally friendly engine that puts out 135hp standard.

Like I told Minstar, I have a mate of mine Tony who started his Mini project a year earlier than mine. He wont be finished anytime soon because of the big bucks he has to spend on his A-series to achieve about 150hp - and probably inreliably as well and definately not efficiently.

Like I said, comes down to pure financial logic.
My two cents
Kent Brockman (aka Andrew)

an a series with 150hp would definately be unreliable and practically undriveable on the street hey.