Before


After


This is my biggest worry about the van - not sure if my fix is legal, but once welded will be stronger than the passenger side.

how did it get like that in the first place???

It was hacked to accomodate a racing seat!?!

Are you removing the previous crossmember, or just covering it???

Should be good either way. I dont see any reason why it would be illegal.

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

It looks a lot stronger than the original `bit of tin' that BMC used..
How are you going to attach the seats? I would drill 12mm holes right thru front/rear and weld tubes or tapped steel bars in. Then they won't crack off like original captive nuts do.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OMG Doc you are a GENIUS, allow me to say it again "GENIUS" - what a fantastic idea, I wish I thought of it.

What about just running long bolts through to the rear? problem will be finding hight tensile bolts that long - or do you think I could use regular ones?

And yea, I am just covering the existing Xmember.

Put spacer tubes in and then put bolts through them. The tubes will stop any bending you get when the bolts are tightened as the xmember will not get crushed when they are tightened. This could be done to any seat xmember in a car as a mod. Dril a hole the size of the tube OD in the xmember, weld a plate on one end of the tube. Then put it through the xmember having cut the tube long enough to stick out and then slip another plate over protruding the tube end. Weld and trim the plates and tube to the front and back of the xmember. No more broken xmember I would reckon.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

I did that to my van - with the advice of the Doc.
Here are a few pics of it. I had to do some floor restoration, so it was easy to do.

Putting tubes thru the frame is an old race car trick used on spaceframes.

I use 12mm steel bars 120mm long, tapped 8mm dia x 25 deep at 1 end, then screw 8mm x 20mm long Unbrako screws in. Strong, & easy to get.
Braze the bars or tubes in, it makes a much neater job.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I agree, but most restorers have only got MIG and welding the tube in without a plate on it would be a tad difficult with a MIG unless you did it from underneath. Oxy or brazing would be simple. If access from underneath was possible put the plates inside the channel and weld away. It would be a very neat job.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

I agree, but most restorers have only got MIG and welding the tube in without a plate on it would be a tad difficult with a MIG unless you did it from underneath. Oxy or brazing would be simple. If access from underneath was possible put the plates inside the channel and weld away. It would be a very neat job.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

I agree, but most restorers have only got MIG and welding the tube in without a plate on it would be a tad difficult with a MIG unless you did it from underneath. Oxy or brazing would be simple. If access from underneath was possible put the plates inside the channel and weld away. It would be a very neat job.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

I agree, but most restorers have only got MIG and welding the tube in without a plate on it would be a tad difficult with a MIG unless you did it from underneath. Oxy or brazing would be simple. If access from underneath was possible put the plates inside the channel and weld away. It would be a very neat job.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.