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 Post subject: Starlet Frontcut
PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 5:36 pm 
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Location: Hunter Valley NSW
These questions are for all those out there whom have purchased a starlet halfcut...

How much did you pay?
How many Km's did it have?
Where did you get it from?

I have been offered an imported starlet halfcut from victoria for $2000, with 85,000kms. Is it a good price?

Lucas


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 7:52 pm 
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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:14 pm 
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Yeah I would be interested in this also. Everywhere I have called of late have quoted around $2500 for a half cut other than an auto one that they obviously couldnt get rid of. For that reason Im thinking an engine package might be the way to go.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 10:19 pm 
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I paid $1950 for mine (Rolin Automotive) and it had about 90,000kms on it (94 Model). But it did cost $450 in freight to get it home :( . Also Minster you might want to check whether the one for $2500 maybe one with an LSD as most the Starlet halfcuts for that amount are out of EP91's which came with LSD alot of the time. Generally $2000 is the price for a non LSD 4efte I have found.

Cheers

Matt

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au
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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 10:38 pm 
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Yeah I might double check that. Most of the people I have talked to really dont have that much of an idea about the engine which is a worry.

How is your car coming along minstar? So why arent you going to put the intercooler above the turbo on an angle (like in picture 5) I would have thought that this would have been a good position as it would get good air flow and would enable better response (shorter intake)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 9:51 am 
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Minster, there are a couple of issues, I may still put the intercooler there (or underneath) but either way it looks like being a custom jobbie. The main problem is that the intercooler will have to be quite thin (50mm) the original item is approx 63mm and I like 92 want to keep it looking like a sleeper as much as possible. Also the outlet from the CT9 Turbo makes the piping to the intercooler in any other location than the top mount a little tricky. But first I have to sort out my gearchange which is giving me headaches (but i'll lick it!). :wink:

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au
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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 11:35 am 
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You could leave it as a top mount with a slight angle towards the front and run ducting under the bonnet to the intercooler like in the new mazda 6 mps. 92 seems to have managed to get the motor further back towards the cabin than in yours, whats different? So what problems is the gearchange causing?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:12 pm 
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998cc
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Yeah I noticed that with 92's aswell. I tipped mine forward to raise the height of the diff outputs meaning it leans forward, I realised the followon effect this would have. Swings and roundabouts. The thing I would like to know about 92's is the gearchange as his is even further to the right than mine and mine was further to the right than Brad's. This is proving the problem with the gearchange. There is little room for the linkages to move. But I have a solution so it ain't over. As for being further back the diff is the limiting factor you can only go so far back until you start hitting your steering rack. Maybe 92 dropped his or something. Either way these questions are better answered by 92. I will post a pic (tonight) of the gearlinkage area to give you a better idea of what I am talking about.

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 7:58 pm 
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My gearchange on the gearbox is all changed. The linkage That goes in and out has been bent towards the RHS and turned upside down then uses a bell crank to correct direction and the one that makes it go in and out has been moved so it works over top of gearbox also moved to pivot on RHS. I'll try and take a pic of it and post it.
The diff is almost against the rack still in original position

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 10:47 pm 
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92 that sounds pretty radical. I was thinking to myself crap whatever he did it must be pretty radical 8) :lol: . I was kinda thnking geez why am I having trouble. But these are things that would have never occurred to me so I am feeling a little less stupid. Please post a pic as it may give me a better idea of how to solve my dilemma (if you don't mind :oops: ).

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au
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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 11:08 pm 
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Now thats hard to visualise. Ben how does it go changing gears? Has it had any affect?

By the way have you got it registered yet?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 11:11 pm 
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Minster, here is a pic of my problem. You will notice just how tight it is there. I have several solutions just got to put them into play...

Image

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au
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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 11:23 pm 
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Ok I can see your problem. How much does this need to move? You wouldnt want to cut much more away I would have thought that it would be an important structual area.

This might be a stupid question but how does this actually work? The gear change that is.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2005 8:37 am 
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Well minster here goes. The rod and arm assembly that is going into the cone tower well that arm is essentially the gear selector. It moves left to right and backwards and forwards. So if you can imaging the rod moves into the gearbox and say left that is first gear. Now the other bracket below it in the picture is the pivot for another arm shaped like and L that levers the rod in and out of the gearbox. The picture below may give you a better idea of how it works and also gives you an idea of where this arm would sit if it was in the Mini subframe (ie. smack bang inside my cone tower).

Image

PS. As for the hole in the tower I will be making a heavy guage plate to be welded in there to restore the strength!

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au
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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:26 am 
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So 92 have you got a picture of how you solved the problem? It makes me think it would be better to make a completely new subframe like the allspeed engineering ones. That way you can make a smaller tower with suitable holes.


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