I have a problem with my car which is puzzling me and driving me to drink even more.
I take the car for a drive every couple of weeks and have had no problems.However yesterday the problem started. The car started fine and after five minutes idling it just stopped.
What followed was no ignition light, absolutely nothing. I thought maybe a faulty battery so charged it overnight and tried again today and started first kick ran for five minutes and the same problem. I took the fuse cover off and checked fuse. By the way I could only see one one the top. Is there another?
Mickey has has a bit of a chew at a couple of the wires around the box but nothing major.
Any ideas much appreciated. Thanks

Yes there should be two fuses. Maybe the other one was just hanging loose and sometimes making contact, but has now dropped out completely.

Yep found the second one and it is fine. Problem continues. Thanks

It sounds electrical from what you describe so the obvious starting point is the core wiring and connections. Dirty or loose connectors give exactly that outcome. Start at the boot with positive and negative connections to the battery. Clean and tighten, including the earth strap. Then up to the solenoid connections both in and out, then spade connectors to the fuse block.

Since it stopped when the engine was running try wiggling each connector with running engine and see if it splutters or stops.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Check the voltage regulator for any damage or poor connections , mine has a crack right through the middle and it causes exactly the same problem , I haven't got around to replacing it yet

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1965 Morris 850
1966 Morris Mini Minor
1967 Morris Cooper 'S'
1977 Leyland LS

If generator / alternator charging system is faulty (not charging battery / running electrics via regulator) the coil will run off the battery volts until there is nothing left in the battery. Under normal running conditions the coil will get its volts via a regulated supply from the generator / alternator once a threshold RPM is reached.

To assist others who have mentioned the charging system as a place to look I assume this is the MK II Cooper S you have talked about in other posts? If so it will have an alternator and regulator, not generator.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

It may be running out of fuel at the fuel float bowl on the carb.
it would be worth doing some basic tests also, when it stops do you have spark at the plugs etc.

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Cheers Dave.

Thank you all for the probable cause of the problem.
Battery terminals are clean an tight but I should have said that the car has electronic ignition fitted. Battery has a bit under 13 volts charge and for the life of me when you turn the key nothing happens. No ignition lights, nothing.
Might have to get an electrician out because this is giving me the you know whats.
Thanks again for your help and I’ll let you know when it is sorted out.

Ign switch

Great thought, thank you but as I don’t have another switch to try which wires do I touch together to see if that is the problem?

Check the voltage on the back of the ignition switch in the OFF position vs the ON position will tell you which wires need to be connected. The other one is for the starter solenoid so you will know pretty quickly if you connect the wrong one

When you turn on the key, are you getting 12v at the ignition coil? Using your multimeter check from positive side of coil to the engine block

If you remove a plug & connect the spark plug lead and crank it over does it make any spark? Rest the plug against an earth away from anything flammable like the cylinder head

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I have basic knowledge of electrical stuff on cars. I can connect driving lights or a radio and that is it.
Give me the colours of the wires and I will give it a go. Thanks

Does the interior light and the horn work? They operate independent of the position of the ignition switch.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43