I'm replacing the bush in dads steering rack, the old one crumbled. The new bush is meant to be installed with the metal sleeve so I assume it's meant to go inside like the old felt bush, but it doesn't fit.. not sure how it's meant to be done

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

The poly bush goes in without the sleeve
Push it in until it meets the shoulder inside
Line one of the thin sections up with the small pk that holds it in (see arrow in pic)

I found those blue ones are often too tight. I had to sand some down.
The red Nolathane or the black Whiteline ones are more consistent.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks.. I ended up putting it in without the sleeve, there was no other way to do it. I found a bit of brass to make one but dad wanted to go with the poly one.

Weird that the advice from the retailer was that the sleeve was required

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I machined one from Nylon. Hardest part of the job was full disassembly of the rack just to get that mongrel metal sleeve out.

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

I would agree that the blue bushes are too tight and the black poly bush just right. However, I am not convinced that these poly bushes are an ideal solution here. The original metal can is a press fit into the alloy housing and has a lip on the outer end to prevent the original felt bush from being dislodged as the rack moves outwards. The screw is an extra precaution against the metal can coming out should it be become loose in the alloy housing. When fitting a poly bush, and thus deleting the felt and can from the assembly, the screw then acts on the poly bush only which in my opinion is a very poor situation since if there is a tendency for the bush to slide out (potentially dangerous loss of steering travel), the screw will simply tear through the material. If a poly bush is to be used, I would coat the outside with loctite and arrange matters so that the screw goes into the thick part of the bush, and that this is done after the rack is fitted, so that the screw is forced into the poly material. If fitted to the thin part, then the screw will partially just push the side of the bush inwards and not engage fully with the material.

The lip on the original metal case prevents the shaft from contacting the screw in the event of a worn bush, but no such safety mechanism is there for a poly bush and so once worn, the tip of the screw can contact the rack. I am not sure why the inside of these bushes are made with flats - presumably to allow oil to pass. Normally, oil would pass from one side to the other via the channels in the allow case. Perhaps these bushes swell to fill these channels once fitted? it probably would have been better for the poly bushes to be made so they fit inside the can although this would mean removing the can to fit the bush, but that's not a big job with the right tool.

Given all these disadvantages, I would rather use the felt and steel case. Of course, no one sells the felt bush any more but I've found some place that will sell me a strip of hard felt which appears to be similar to the original and I will report back when it arrives and I have fitted one. Note, this felt is supposed to be soaked in "oil dag" which is an oil with colloidal graphite added. I can't find anyone who sells this either (in Australia) although there is a UK product available.

Update: The felt arrived today and a very good fit it is too. Owners of early 850 should note that the poly bush will not fit their rack because the rack shaft diameter is too small. However, the felt bush appears to be satsifactory for both types of rack. A reasonable sliding fit for an 850 rack, and a tight, but not overly so, fit for the later AYA6001 rack. I am now making up some new lock rings - which although easy to machine, require a certain amount of heat treatment, the cost of which I have yet to investigate.