Got my weekly Jaycar newsletter, and spotted this:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/arduino-compa ... r/p/XC4514?

Just curious to know if these could be used to replace the older bi-metal strip voltage regulator? Needs a few little extras to make it work, but I can't see why it couldn't be used?

Thoughts?

_________________
67 Van, 1275cc

If you mean the instrument voltge stabiliser then all you need is a 10v 3 leg reg. I have them here and have built numerous into the old casings. Easy and simple and work a treat.
That Jaycar product is way overkill.

_________________
Cheers Dave.

Yes, just a 7810 voltage regulator for the instruments, but the alternator regulator is a different story altogether

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

It would technically work but its not whats its designed for and I wouldn't expect it to last long. You don't need that much smoothing and It doesn't look to have much heat dissipation.

Just a normal transistor will do the job better and cheaper. Jaycar wont sell them but you can get AEC-Q101 certified voltage regulators that are designed for automotive applications. They will tolerate over revved alternators and noisy ignition systems better.

There are a few how-to’s around for what Steam and Simon refer to. Eg. http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/MGB-V ... ilizer.htm

Steam, was it you who was selling them ? Has been on my list to swap out, just haven’t got there yet.

_________________
1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA

No, but I can fix anyones for the cost of postage and a couple of beers. You will have to send your old one to me first though.
Someone was selling them though or so I thought.

_________________
Cheers Dave.

Ausmini member Wombat was making replacement solid state voltage stabilisers but not sure if he still is. He put one inside the original Smiths housing for me a couple of years ago. It works perfectly.

I built a 7810 voltage stabiliser about 6 years ago for a negative earth car. It works brilliantly. Build as in web reference. BUT you MUST use a 7910 or equivalent for a positive earth car and the wiring is MESSY to fit in the original tin box.

This MGB article applies equally to minis ....
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/MGB-Voltage-Stabilizer.htm

_________________
1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

my L7810CV chip worked when I connected it, but then cracked in half with a pop when I started the engine.
My mate reckons it was the rush of current that leaves the starter motor as it winds down, but I don't know.
I haven't got around to trying anything again, I might just buy one of the old style metal box ones

Andrew9
It should not be the back emf from the starter motor causing your problem. If it was it, would also probably fry any other lights, radio etc turned on.
A positive earth generator would fry it as would a high current (maybe short circuit) in fuel gauge and sender or engine temp gauge and sender circuits.
Do you have the filtering capacitors either side of the 7810?

That's what he said it was, the EMF, or magnetic field of the motor collapsing as it is turned off. I don't really understand that stuff myself.

Car is now negative earth with an alternator, was positive earth generator a long time ago.

I haven't got around to using a multimeter to check anything, both the fuel gauge and temp gauge "work" they are just a-ways of; Temp gauge is half way when car is cold, and hot/overheating when at normal running temp. Fuel gauge shows empty when empty, but full when only half full. so they seem to behave how I would expect with the slightly higher voltage.

I didn't use any caps, as I thought they were only to provide noise suppression? as opposed to providing protection to the chip, but it might have helped?

I plan to measure some stuff to check no weird voltages or anything and then probably fit a Old style metal voltage stabilizer.
I have a temporary digital temperature gauge fitted, so I've not worried about fixing it for a while

Andrew9
You will need to use a multimeter to check voltages.
It could be that a previous owner has (or a fault) has put battery voltage to drive the gauges rather than the 10 from regulator or 7810. This causes the gauges to fluctuate with alternator output (the fuel gauge might even drop with engine revs).
When you switch on, your 7810 would be effectively wired in reverse. BANG.
Also check that the middle leg of the 7810 is earthed (0 volts). Good luck.
DAVE D