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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2021 6:25 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Thu Jun 17, 2010 8:55 pm
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Location: Central West
Hi all,

Don't know if anyone can help me with this but I am at wits end and probably need to pull out the motor but having a break from it for now as I have spent many weekends wasting a lot of time and getting no where :(

Rebuilt motor all new parts, below is build specs and trouble shooting sequence I have been through.

SPECS
Cooper S 1275
- Block original motor, machined by Graham Russell.
- Crank 1275 from GT or 1100S (cant exactly remember, Graham sourced it for me), original out of Cooper S had a crack and failed crack testing.
- Pistons GR 40thou fitted to conrods by Graham.
- Cam Cooper S original, ground by Graham to slightly advanced Cooper S grind.
- Head original, Police size inlets, SS seats by Graham, bronze valve guides by Graham.
- Carbies standard 1 1/4 Cooper S fully rebuilt.
- Vernier adjustable timing gear, cam in at 105 degrees.
- Oil started with shell 50 as cheap to flush motor out.

TROUBLE SHOOTING
- When first starting motor fired up beautifully not problems at all, after about 45 seconds started blowing oil smoke, a lot of it, particularly under medium revs.
- Following this I rebuilt the PCV valve as diaphragm rubber was hard, thought I was onto it, not luck, still blowing smoke when once warm. It did improve it slightly when idling. But soon as rev smoke back.
- When driving it smoke is consistent and worse when off throttle and then back on, and when plain on it and worse at revs.
- Compression test on all cylinders is fine, Somewhere between (195 and 205 over the 4 cylinders, wrote it down on piece of cardboard at the time).
- As old vehicle, drained all the fuel out as was some old varnished fuel there, completely fresh fuel, no fix.
- Changed inlet valve guide seals to viton steel casing ones, sealed case onto guide with gasket maker sealer. No fix.
Changed oil to Penrite expensive oil for Mini, no change. just took a bit longer to start when warming up.
- Last ditch effort did same to exhaust, no fix. There was a fair amount of dirty exhaust oil blown up under seal from cylinder.

- Apart from the smoke the engine runs beautifully, very quite, smooth, plenty of pulling power but is using around 3mm oil on thee dip stick over 3kms.

- Oil is not building up in the top of head, have checked that, so draining away fine. I have also had the car idling facing up hill, and under revs still blows smoke.
- Graham installed new Cam bearings, and I checked the oil galleries when assembling and everything seemed fine with compressed air flowing through.

- I can only now assume there is something wrong with the pistons? I installed them the same as any other motor I have built, they dropped in fine, used piston ring compressor that I always use. I pre-checked the compression ring gaps and they where bang on. The only slight concern I have is the top and bottom oil rings that sandwich the oil diffuser ring where not particularly springy, felt quite light and where easy to get started in bore compared to compressions rings. One piece oil rings I have fitted in the past seem to have a bit more pre load to them, but I do not know if that means any thing??

I think the engine needs to come out and see if anything wrong with bottom end but thought I would ask Ausmini community if they had any other thoughts as feeling a bit over it at moment!

I had original motor running when I first got the car and it wasn't blowing any smoke and its ring and bores where completely stuffed. I just cannot understand why this brand new motor would be blowing more smoke than a bat mobile on a fast get away :?:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 1:29 pm 
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Hi Rusty - sorry, can't help with a diagnosis. This is out of my league.

Thought it worth clarifying your mention of "Police size inlet valves". Both valves on Cooper S cylinder heads used by NSW Police were standard Cooper S size. From August 1970 when the performance upgrade SPO41 commenced the only difference to the head was Special Tuning inner and outer valve springs and locating collar, and mild porting to match the 1 1/2" inlet manifold and carbies.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 4:31 pm 
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848cc
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For the sake of the exercise, i would completely remove the PCV valve and plug the intake manifold hole. Start it up and see how it goes? I had something similar happen to me years ago, PCV valve was faulty.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 6:17 pm 
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Location: Bunbury WA
Sounds like something wrong with oil rings :shock:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2021 8:12 am 
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Rusty
You said that the oil level drops in the sump/engine so the problem is probably there, but could it be that the exhaust system is saturated with oil (from the previous engine) and this is producing the smoke as it heats up?
Its unlikely, but worth looking at before you strip down the new motor.
Good Luck, Dave D


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2021 8:43 am 
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Do you have a brake booster? They can fail and dump brake fluid into the inlet...white smoke...

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2021 9:11 pm 
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Location: North of the Harbour planning my next mini project
What are the ring gaps? And how many Kilometres have you done on the engine? Is it running rich? Could be washing the oil off the bore and rings not bedded in?
I feel your grief as I have an 1100 which I have never been happy with as it still uses a bit of oil and blows smoke. I even had it honed and another set of rings but still the same. It was running too rich and after a dyno tune it is better but not perfect.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2021 9:43 pm 
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my first engine did something similar, 20+ years ago now - I rebuilt it with a mate showing me what to do. It ran fine for a little while then just started pumping out smoke, enough to completely engulf the car in a blue cloud. We couldn't figure it out, so in frustrated desperation I took the head off and put on one he loaned me, and then there was no smoke. I put my head back on and still no smoke - it was a complete mystery - maybe there was a fault in the first head gasket?

Are the plugs all the same burn pattern? it is possible to narrow it down to one cylinder?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 10:06 pm 
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998cc
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Hi all,
Thanks for the feedback,

All plugs get fouled with oil but 2 & 3 are worst.
I did try blocking pcv valve completely and problem still remained.

I think I might take the head off, have a look and possibly change head gasket. If no good, cry over a few beers and pull engine out for complete inspection.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 10:10 pm 
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I have tried different needles, and varying mixtures and doesn't change it much.
Can't remember what ring gap was off top of my head as checked them when first got pistons but they where right on spec.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 10:12 pm 
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Maybe the oil rings were not the right size or were not installed the correct way.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 9:46 am 
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Location: Sydney
It seems you have spent some money with GR on this engine....what was his opinion..?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 8:14 pm 
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998cc
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Pull it down Get a machine shop with a dial bore gauge to check the bores and then measure the piston skirts, ring gaps that should have been checked when built .Oil rings ??


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 9:03 pm 
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It is very easy to damage these thin oil ring scraper rails if using a regular old skool ring compressor, I've done it on a +0.030" piston. Even had a good chamfer in the bores.
Much safer to use a tapered tube compressor for the piston diameter you have.
In my case I couldn't borrow a +030" one, so turned one up out of steam pipe.

Edit
PM sent.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2021 5:32 pm 
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998cc
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Ian_B wrote:
Pull it down Get a machine shop with a dial bore gauge to check the bores and then measure the piston skirts, ring gaps that should have been checked when built .Oil rings ??


Hi Ian,
I checked all the clearances when first getting parts home, was around two years ago. It was all right on as Grahams gear normally is.

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