Hello. I am replacing my Maniflow LCB extractorc with Maniflow 3 into 1 extractors.
My LCB's were making contact with the drive shaft uni joint.

I was thinking the 3 into 1's would have more clearance.

I fasten the nuts on the extractors and inlet manifold to get it all flush, but as a result there is very little clearance between the extractors and the uni joint (only about 1/4"). I am thinking this clearance may reduce even more when the mini (Mini K 1100) is off of the jack stands. I wanted to get it flush with the head before attaching the bracket to the gearbox.

Has anybody got any tips fitting the Maniflow 3 into 1's on a mini with the nylon capped uni joints? The Maniflow 3 into 1 seems to be designed for minis with the pot joint.

Thanks, Ian

Do you have the “Freeflow” manifold or the race “3 into 1” extractors?

I had the freeflow on my 998 with rubber cross and nylon capped uni joints and it fit fine

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This is the freeflow style that timmy 201 was referring to. They are made to suit rubber uni diffs. They are usually considered to be a close replacement for the original factory '3 into 1' used on Coopers although they look different.


This is what is referred to as 3 into 1 and tends to be for competition.

Thank you for the replies... I have the Maniflow 3 into 1 Freeflow extractor (non competition).
I still have clearance issues against my uni joint.
The text for it did say it is the best extractor (in terms of easy fitting) for "rubber uni joint" minis.

I have not had any problems fitting a set to one of my cars.

Do you have a pipe clamp and a bar to attach the pipe to the remote housing?
In the photo, the parts are not the correct parts but indicative of how the exhaust is held in place on the remote gear change housing.
Once the pipe is bolted up to the engine, the pipe will move with any movement of the engine. I know there isn't a lot of clearance there, but if you have clearance on setting it up, it shouldn't change.
My K has steel unis now so I'm talking from memory. But people like timmy201 with the rubber unis might be able to help further.

I’ve got pot joints now Bill, so plenty of clearance

There is a newer bracket GEX7526 that you’ll need. I didn’t know this at the time so I left the bottom loose, and haven’t had any problems yet
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... X7526.aspx

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Thanks timmy.
That means the bracket in your photo doesn't use the remote hole - to cater for fewer cars having the remote housing now?

Yes it’s made to suit remote or rod change boxes. I think it was a factory addition on later cars

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G'day Ian,

I've got the same setup as what you have on my 850 and there's enough clearance once you fit the right bracket as Timmy mentioned - GEX7526.
I originally got the wrong bracket - part AYG2020 - and that was no good.
I fitted the manifold onto the motor and bolted up that bracket on the diff before I put the motor back in the car and it all went together ok. Bit of a squeeze getting the uni joints in place but once you get them in place, you can do the joints up no worries.

I take it you're using a set of the QL5000 joints? If so, just be careful how tight you do up the nyloc nuts. Don't over tighten them or you'll mess things up. I posted on here about them so if you so a search you'll find a bit of info.
I've done about 2,500 miles in Minnie now and no probs.

Cheers, Mark.

Thank you for the replies.

Yes Mark... I do have the QL5000 joints. I use a torque wrench to the required torque on the nyloc nuts. It is good to know that your set up is working. I actually had to remove the uni joint to get the extractor in place.

I do have the clamp and bar to secure the bottom of the extractor to the gear change housing. It is a strange angle so thanks for the advise on the bracket GEX7526.

I guess I am just nervous because my last uni joint got a bit mashed up against my Maniflow LCB extractor (which is why I am replacing the LCB with 3 into 1 freeflow.

I do like the idea of using pot joints at a later stage. I actually popped some of the nylon caps off of one of my QL5000 joints out a few months ago, when I was being silly and doing skids.

tighten the universal joints when on the ground

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Tighten when on the ground... that makes sense and I had not thought of that. Thanks for the tip.

Clearance is definitely a problem on my car.

When I took it off the jack stands clearance between the Manifow 3into 1 freeflow and the unit joint nyloc nuts is 1mm. I think it will hit on a bumpy road.

Ideas I have so far are:
1) double up on manifold gasket (it is that close)
2) try to adjust the angle of the engine slightly by loosening and refastening the engine mounts (no idea if that is feasible)
3) take to the extractors with a ball pene hammer (my last choice because the extractors are brand new)

4) convert to different (pot?) joints

The exhaust manifold shouldn't be getting any closer to the diff? It's all pretty solid there and any suspension movement shouldn't bring them together?

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