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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 3:09 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:26 pm
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Location: Adelaide
I have an oil leak which seems to be coming from the base of the transfer gear / clutch housing, so it looks like a new gasket is needed. I've changed clutches and primary gear seals plenty of times with the engine still in the car. Can you remove the transfer housing to replace the gasket between the housing an the engine/gearbox without removing the engine?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 4:26 pm 
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1275cc
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yes

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 5:06 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
Hopefully your gasket will be exactly the same thickness, or it will change the end float on the idler gear.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 5:14 pm 
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1360cc
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slide wrote:
I have an oil leak which seems to be coming from the base of the transfer gear / clutch housing ...

Are you sure it's not coming from the hole in the base of the case that's there for this specific purpose (i.e. to drain oil getting into the clutch housing via the primary gear oil seal)? There's usually a split pin in the hole.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 6:27 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:26 pm
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Location: Adelaide
Seems to be weeping from the joint at the bottom of the transfer housing between transfer housing and gearbox. I used a new gasket but I don't generally use any gasket sealant on this joint as I don't want it to throw out the idler gear shim clearance measurement.

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1965 Mini Van (1360)
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1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 6:44 pm 
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848cc
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Hi, My personal opinion is why would you try that? Yes you probably can, but removing an engine can often be done in an hour or less, and sure it takes a lot longer to put it back properly as you are always fixing things that were not right. What a terrible job it would be to do it correctly in the car.
The gasket thickness is critical for idler gear clearance, the bottom dowel hole in most gaskets is too small and splits the gasket, which is a possible oil leak source, and I definitely use sealant on the gasket
There are so many areas you need to look thoroughly at, and I do not believe you can do this from above
Cheers Lindsay Siebler The best minis are built with patience.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 6:51 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 11:38 am
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Location: Tassie
I to would pull the engine out. Easier to work on for not much effort. I suggest using #3 aviation sealant too.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 6:57 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:26 pm
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Location: Adelaide
Managed to find time today to do some further investigating and it seems like oil is coming out from the oil transfer pipe banjo bolt where it screws into the front of the block. Oil is then running down the block onto the bottom of the transfer gear housing. Not sure why oil is leaking as I used new copper sealing washers on either side of the banjo and did the bolt up tight. Is any thread sealant required here?

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1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2020 6:43 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2005 8:11 pm
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Location: Wellington,
Try heating up the washers to red hot and quench in water. Allows them soften and seal better


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2020 7:13 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
look for some thicker copper washers

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 12:37 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2019 12:54 pm
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kiwiinwgtn wrote:
Try heating up the washers to red hot and quench in water. Allows them soften and seal better


Was going to suggest the same. Was something my old man taught me, he was a marine engineer for 30yrs working on big diesel stuff. He had a whole bunch of tricks up his sleeve. I do it on any of the copper washers.

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