A helpful article has been added to the How To folder here - viewtopic.php?f=25&t=99524

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

That it a good little idea.
Can I add (either here or in the "How to" section) that the drivers' side door latch on wind-up windows can be replaced by the latch from 850 sliding window doors. They are the same size and shape and still available new.
The only modification needed is to thread the hole in the centre of the 3 retaining rivets. The hole happens to be the right tapping size for #10 gauge UNF X 32 tpi which are the same as the original screws used to hold the latch to the door.

The LH latch has the complication of the locking lever - still thinking on that one but there are several options, especially if you have access to a lathe to make 3 new rivets.

Added to the How To.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

you mean this one? holes are threaded to 3/16"UNF

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Sorry, Simon. I don't understand what you are saying.
24A2145 (RH door latch for RH drive cars, sliding windows) doesn't have threaded rivets to hold the latch to the door frame. They have a plain hole for a through-screw and nut to attach to the door frame.

I read your comment above and was hopeful for an easy solution, however there may be a change in some of the mechanisms? I thought it was worth adding to this thread should anyone else search for this.

It looks like a 4.1mm is approximately the correct size for the 10/32 tap, however a 5mm drills fits straight in the hole on my replacement locks as below. I have done a side by side comparison of them too. The screw from the Australian lock falls through the hole on the UK spec mechanism

I also tested the screw in a demist vent (incase the screws had been replaced) but it was the same thread as expected.

Louis, you are correct. My original post about the holes in the UK sliding window latch being the tapping size for 10gg UNF was incorrect.
I have just realised that the hole is the correct size for a 10gg UNF helicoil or recoil insert tap, which returns the hole to accept a 10gg UNF screw once the rethread coil is fitted.
I have done 3 of these conversions so I know it works - I just forgot that one important detail. Sorry for the misleading comment originally.
The comment in the 'How To' section should also be edited so others aren't confused by my mistake.
The only possible problem is that the rivets need to be clamped when tapping them as they may tend to turn.

No apology needed I am sure it was not intentional, I am always happy to learn but I thought best to post here to save someone else buying something and being disappointed; I will look into the helicoil kit next, thanks for the recommendation!