I appear to be having problems with the spark plugs I am using in conjunction with the electronic ignition system I am using on my Cooper S. System appears to run erratic after a period which appears to be solved at present by the fitting of a set of new plugs.
Does any one have experience with the best heat range plug to be used with this type of ignition system?

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John Sneddon
0408 431 807
1963 Morris Cooper
1965 Morris 850
1968 Morris Cooper S

Hi John, I believe I could answer your questions, but some more info would help give better answers.
What plugs are you using now ? What electronic ignition and coil are you using ? What carbies are you using ? and what fuel do you use ? I don't think answers about what others are using is always accurate, as each car is really a bit individual.
Cheers Lindsay siebler

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1959 Austin A40 Farina fun car
1965 Mk1 Cooper S restored
1970 Colt 1100F SS restored
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project

What plug gap are you running? 25 or 30 thou

Plugs NGK BP6ES set at 25 thou
Ignition system - Petronix Ignitor with Flame Thrower matched coil
Carbon ignition leads
Carburettors - 1 1/4 twins with standard needles tuned with Colour Tune
Cam - Mini Spares Evolution Fast road (similar to Russell RE13)
Tappet Gap 14 thou exhaust, 16 thou inlet as per Mini Spares spec
Ignition timing - 5 degrees BTDC set with timing light
Fuel 98 octane
Rockers 1.3 roller
Engine bored 60 thou
Head slightly polished in ports
Extractors LCB

Hope this fills in all the gaps

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John Sneddon
0408 431 807
1963 Morris Cooper
1965 Morris 850
1968 Morris Cooper S

Check the continuity of the HT leads. If your using a side entry cap the spikes wont work very well with carbon core leads.

I've found inductive core leads eg. Bosch maintain their resistance level whereas carbon core leads (graphited string!) gain resistance with age. Even well known brands. Eventually going open circuit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks

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John Sneddon
0408 431 807
1963 Morris Cooper
1965 Morris 850
1968 Morris Cooper S

Hi, thanks John for detailed info
I agree with GTO green and Dr mini , leads are very important A great set of Inductive would be miles better, but not in an early side entry cap

I do not know what curve is in that distributor, but is is wrong, unless your total timing is only something like 20 degrees, and then you would be asking about a lack of performance
With ULP 98 you need far more base timing to have any hope of burning the fuel at low revs, more like 14 - 16 degrees at idle...it just doesn't burn well
also you can get a spark tester that you can put on the end of a lead and it shorts the visible spark to earth, that can be used to tell you how much spark you have got
GR and Dr Mini have both done reviews on ausmini about the ignition systems I do, it has a very large spark and long firing length of spark. This all produces more low down power, but also stops plug fouling. A good spark is essential
You cannot afford to lose any of your limited spark, your plug gaps ok, but there have been rotor buttons made with 2mm short arms, and caps with pins further apart. and the leads !!..check it all carefully
And you need an engine to run hot enough ...no 74 degree thermostats
Cheers Lindsay Siebler

_________________
1959 Austin A40 Farina fun car
1965 Mk1 Cooper S restored
1970 Colt 1100F SS restored
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project

It's important for the timing to be correct at operating rpm, with 98 fuel and that cam or similar, you want around 30-32°advance at 3500-4000 and no more advance beyond.
Some cheap new electronic.dizzys sold now have a 20° advance plate in them. This = 40 crankshaft degrees and means advance RETARD at idle.
Ideal is for the plate to have 9-10° not 20.
They are not hard to modify, I have just done one.
It needed the plate's stop brazed up to reduce gap from 8.5 to 4.0mm, this made it 9.5° = 19 crank degrees.
With the same springs it gave max advance at 3500 rpm. Performance in a 68mm bore 998 motor much improved and no plug fouling.
(Edited for clarity)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Highly recommend the distruburor/coil package that Lomin fitted to my Cooper.
Absolutely transformed the driveabilty with increased power and torque from 1k to 6k rpm. Brilliant!!

Anyone fitted Mini Spares evolution electronic distributor specifically developed for use with 286 - 296 profile cams?

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Hi All,

I'm looking to replace my points with an electronic ignition system and was wondering what peoples experience was with this set from MKO?
I've seen names thrown around like Accuspark, Aldon etc but was wondering about this.

https://minikingdomonline.com.au/produc ... stributor/

I have a 43D distributor, no vac advance.

If I understand correctly, this is just replacing the "spark maker", i.e. any advance curves remain the same since the mechanical parts aren't changing?

Also will I need to replace the coil?

Thanks

Also are the parts like cap, rotor interchangeable between 43D and 45D?

Thanks

Yes the same cap. And rotor.
I found the Lucas cap in green box fitted looser than eBay ones did.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.