Just finished tidying up engine bay and refitted engine and trying to refit remote gearchange housing. Not sure how the 2 "knobs" from the gearbox fit into the "hook" of the remote.....can't seem to get it to match up.

Any pics or advice?

Thanks in advance..

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

pictures are just about impossible because there's no gap when it fits up - sometimes it slots neatly into place, other times it's a bastard of a thing to get it in

Because I rarely undo the rear bush, I lift the remote up to the diff housing. Sometimes I need to lift the back of the engine a little bit to get it to align, but otherwise it slots in OK

When it does give me trouble, I get one of the kids to hold on to the gearstick, usually (I think) asking them to hold the stick towards the back of the car (knobby thing forwards) and then to push it gently forwards as it engages the ball thing...

it's a patience and perseverance test

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thanks, am resting it on a jack so guess I need a helper to play with the gear lever as I try and lift and click it in....but the hook is supposed to go and hook over in front of the front "knob" correct?

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

The gearbox has 2 fingers with a ball at the end of each. The rear ball fits into the hole in the change shaft of the remote housing. The front finger slips either just infront or just behind the fork at the end of the change shaft.
I usually have the rear engine mount on the remote and resting in its bracket, with a jack taking most of the weight of the remote and helping to lift into position. Gearbox linkages in neutral.
If you get the rear ball end into the hole and slowly lift the remote casing up to the diff, the front ball finds its own way onto the fork.
Lining up the 4 boltholes can need the engine to be tilted a bit.

Then you have to make sure the rubber seals are still there!

Thanks.
Had it seem to sit in properly once. Problem is that then the mounting holes are out by 1 cm or so. Have the front engine mount bolts only in loosely and tried jacking rear of motor but doesn't help. Loosened rear rubber mount and put back as far as possible. Also tried compressing rubber of mount by tightening but doesn't help. Engine is same a when taken out and the remote casing was left in the car as it is now. Was going well until this.....

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

Have you taken off parts or all of the upper engine steady between bulkhead and the block to let the engine tilt more?
Sometimes a small pry bar/screwdriver in one of the 4 boltholes can lever the other holes to align. Not best practice but can work if you don't damage threads. New engine mounts can make it a battle.

I tend to do it with the engine mounts and upper engine steady installed, that way the engine is in basically the right spot to accept the remote.... if I need to lift the back of the motor it's only to align the bolt holes a tiny bit

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I have only put the engine and have the front mount bolts in, and nothing else attached which allows engine movement, but the whole car is on an angle as the front is on stands so I can get under and do the gearshift. Both ways could work as know things get out of alignment once the car is in the air!

Might try fresh tomorrow morning again and if no go, put all engine mount bolts in and see what happens.

Thanks gents!

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

yeah - you're fighting against gravity while it's trying the to make the diff housing hit the floor and everything else is floating around. Doing up the remote is basically the last thing I do before I knock the collector on my extractors

If you have a new rear mount you might leave the bracket bolts loose so that it can slide backwards and forwards a bit but still hold the back of the remote up

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

In one of your attempts have you knocked the gearbox into gear? I have found what Bill B and Simon have said to be correct, the fork between the upper stems/pins/things and it feels its way in.

Two things to check
a) have you put the upper selectors ( arrowed- sorry about incorrect naming) in the wrong way on the shaft? ( note to self --- important)
b) have you bumped it out of neutral? spin wheels to see and use a lever to move external selector rods on diff housing

Finally got it. Put the remaining engine mount bolts in and attached uni joints. Thanks all. Not a fun job when it doesn't go in the first time..........

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

And your point is....?
We've all been there.

Just thanking people for their help....and that now I have done it thanks to the info, no-one needs to reply. Hope it may help someone in the future who has not been there..... Common courtesy I thought....

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

it's nice to get a "thanks" every now and then... and I sympathise with you that it's a pain if it doesn't go in first time, what should be a 10 second job becomes 20 minutes

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I think you are upset by my comment "and your point is.."
It was meant to be humourous reply to your comment about it not being a fun job when it doesn't work out. I just meant that we have all had those moments with minis.
I meant more or less what Simon k said.
Sorry if it sounded critical. Meant to be sympathetic.