I was trying to work out why the plastic cap on my brake master cylinder was getting a bit mangled - then I realised I'd installed it back to front (idiot).
Is it possible to undo the nuts and brake line and rotate it without having to remove the dreaded clevis pin below? Please say yes
They last time I fiddled with a clevis pin my back and neck wasn't right for days but the main problem was my eyesight. I couldn't focus on the damned thing when close enough to work on it...

Thanks

Michael

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Logic says that you should be able to get sufficient height to rotate it but you probably need to push the brake pedal to the floor so the actuating rod is up as high as it can go. It's held into the master cylinder bore by a circlip so that's what will limit the upward travel.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks Doug, I'll give it a go. I'm visualising brake fluid wanting to go everywhere followed by a brake bleed all round...
2 man job I think, will wait until the weekend and do it at a mates place me thinks.

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

I reckon it's a job where the little bit of pain to remove the clevis pin is worth it - you *might* be able to rotate the master cylinder with it in place, but the chances of needing to remove it when you're half way through the job and have already made a mess and are crankier than a bull who just had his nuts nut off are pretty high....

it's a good opportunity to take the MC out and put in a new clevis pin with an R clip so it's easy next time.... my master cylinders come out very easily

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Simon,
I hear you! My imagination has already been at work visualising turning a one hour job into a messy frustrating afternoon..
The main issue as I said before is my eyesight or lack thereof!
When I feel I'm up to a bit of self flagellation, I'll give it a go. Doing it as you describe would minimise fluid loss/ brake bleeding dramas also I imagine...
Where does one get hold of R clips? Auto shops?
Cheers
Michael

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Repco or supercheap, someone like that will have one of those 'champion' merchandisers.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Somewhere on this site, drmini suggested bent needle-nose pliers (cheap at Supercheap) to help with this. I have tried it and it does make the job easier.
The problem with R clips is the smallest ones commonly available are slightly too big and I worry that they could move around and ping off.

Bill,
The main issue is my eyes to be honest. Far enough away to see what you're doing and I can't reach. Close enough to reach I can't focus on the blooming thing. And I'm missing the 3rd hand to hold the magnifying glass! Just an age thing I suppose...
I have heard some people have misgivings re R clips..
I'll update after the weekend but I won't be recording it!!

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

never had an issue...

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Been running 'R' clips for years , no problems .

If you have had the clevis pins out in the last couple of years they should be a lot easier to get out this time provided you cleaned them up when you did it , i have found that they only become a problem when they haven't been removed for 30+ years .

Never had a problem myself..................................

Update:

It IS possible to swing the brake master cylinder around to its correct position without removing the clevis pin (Thank God!). I loosened the brake line nut slightly (cut a slot in a 7/16 ring spanner with the angle grinder), removed the 2 1/2" nuts holding the thing down and there was just enough slack in the brake line to lift the master cylinder off the studs and rotate it anti clockwise 180 degrees to its correct position. I didn't even lose any brake fluid, the whole job took 10 minutes. A win I think!
Now I just have to find where on earth I've hidden the replacement undamaged plastic cap. I know its here, somewhere...

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Amazing the little "tricks of the trade" that get tested by Mini enthusiasts. If there's a quicker and easier way to do something chances are someone has done it.

Thanks for posting the outcome. Now it's here for others to reference.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks Winabbey,

There must be enough travel re piston in the bore to make it possible. The studs are fairly short so maybe only 1/2" was needed.
Having said that, my experience is only useful for those of us who were stupid enough to install the thing the wrong around in the first place!
I was surprised I could pull it off without having to bleed the brakes... The trick here is to only loosen the brake line off the tiniest bit so you don't lose the seal when rotate the master cylinder 180 degrees..
Tip: Don't even attempt to loosen the brake line with an open ender 7/16 spanner. It will end in tears. Cut a slot in a ring spanner. The effort needed to loosen the nut is considerable, an open ender would only round off the flats I reckon...
Cheers
Michael

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Good solution if you have a spare ring spanner. Of course if you don't want to damage an existing spanner they are available from the usual auto tool outlets - called flare nut spanner (wrench).

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Produc ... 0/SPO80013

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43