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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 12:34 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:36 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Murwillumbah NSW
Hope you can clear a few things up.
I had my clutch buttoned up on my freshly built 1098, ( as per the Haynes manual). I then had a read on the forums about the required spring flatness and potenial crank thrust damage. So I removed the clutch / flywheel assembly and set it up on the bench. Info; the flywheel and pressure plate have been machined, with no apparent material removed from the pressure plate horns. Using a competition disc and orange dot spring.

I have a few questions:

1. When torqued up on the bench the spring is almost flat, does it have to be completely flat?
Attachment:
Orange dot spring angle torqued up 600.jpg

2. The clutch straps are at an angle, can I use washers under the straps against the flywheel surface to get them parallel?
Attachment:
spring flat torqued up washer thickness 600.jpg

3. What washers go under the three spring to pressure plate bolts?
Attachment:
What washers go under here 600.jpg

4. Will an Orange dot spring be to strong and damage the crank thrusts? If so how? Does the spring apply pressure to the crank thrust continually.?

Last question, thanks for your patience. How do you build your clutch assembly? Do you build it on the bench and then offer the assembly up to the primary gear / crank. Or pressure plate, add disk , then flywheel and finally spring?

Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:17 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
There should be a 1.5mm thick 3/8 washer under the straps on the flywheel.
Spring can be slightly less than flat. But max clamp force is reached when flat. As you disengage the clutch, the clamp pressure reduces as the spring goes over centre.
An orange dot clutch is just OK but do not ride the clutch waiting for the lights to change.
I assemble on the bench to check spring height, but assemble it piece by piece onto the motor.
Get the flywheel, backplate and diaphragm dynamically balanced before fitting to motor.
Best method is do flywheel, then add backplate and do it, then add diaphragm and pick which position gives best balance. Paint mark all 3 parts for assembly.

Edit
Check new orange diaphragm's thrust plate for runout, some recent ones have been poor.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:28 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:36 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Murwillumbah NSW
Thanks drmini.

That's great, glad I took it back off again. Do you use washers under the spring to horn bolts, says anti rattle in the Hayes manual, would blue Permatex thread lock be equivalent?

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Shakeproof 3/8 washers are standard. A bit of Loctite on the threads is a good idea too.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 2:02 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:36 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Murwillumbah NSW
Awesome, final stages now. Getting excited.


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