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 Post subject: Repainting engine advice
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:53 pm 
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Have my MK2 S engine rebuilt and ready to fit after I repaint it and engine bay. It has multi layers of various "Cooper S" green on it and has good coverage but I want it all one colour and looking good.

Gearbox is on but ancillaries off. What would be easiest way to get good surface prep that will give a good finish? Not keen on taking all paint off if possible. Some flaky paint and crappy paint in tight areas.

Guess someone has done this and was hoping for some tips....

Thanks in advance.....

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Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:31 am 
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Wire brush on a drill maybe to get rid of flakey areas , i did my V8 boat engine this way whilst it was still in the boat a couple of seasons ago , took a while , but came up good .


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:10 pm 
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Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
As Goodie suggests. I would then use a rattle can with Hi Temp paint as a base coat (I chose silver), then you can top coat it with the MOWOG green to restore originality (unless of course you are not fussed on originality and prefer, say, nipple pink!).

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:21 pm 
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AEG163job wrote:
As Goodie suggests. I would then use a rattle can with Hi Temp paint as a base coat (I chose silver), then you can top coat it with the MOWOG green to restore originality (unless of course you are not fussed on originality and prefer, say, nipple pink!).


As opposed to dog dick pink :D

I repainted mine in ford racing blue with a rattle can in the vht but have yet to get it up to temp to finish the paint off. Apparently the vht paints need to be heated once applied to cure them...seeing as I painted it 6 years ago it will probably peel off in one large sheet so will have to paint it again once I get it on the road.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 4:41 pm 
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I've been using compressed air on all flaky paint and it rips it right off. Wear sunnies and don't breathe while you do it coz it flicks paint flakes in your face. Otherwise it's great, and fun.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 4:57 pm 
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I forgot to say, wash down with grease & wax remover before painting.

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 4:59 pm 
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CPOCSM wrote:

As opposed to dog dick pink :D


Sure beats Gonnoreah Green or Syphillis Yellow! :D

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 5:42 pm 
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You don't need hi temp paint... If the engine gets hot enough to worry ordinary auto paint then the paint will be the least issue you will be concerned about...

Like the other have said; remove any scabby stuff with a wire brush and clean with degreaser and de waxer.

I did mine around 25 years ago using Dulux Spraying Enamel (according to the tin) mixed to the original Leyland formula "Metallic Green" over a spray of etch primer. The block was hot tanked before the build and cleaned off after with degreaser/dewaxer. IMHO its lasted quite well..... better than pretty much all the factory jobs I've seen.

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 5:51 pm 
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Thanks all.....good tips and tricks....will pass on the nipple pink though!

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ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!


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