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timmy201
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 4:51 pm 
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8700s14 wrote:
phillb wrote:
8700s14 wrote:
Also, another question: I measured my belt (well, the belt off the car, not the one around my waist) and it is about 810mm, I see there are three common sizes of 813, 825 and 850mm, the 'cooper s mk1' should be suited to the 850mm belt (larger water pump pulley), what should the diameter of the cooper s water pump pulley be?


The Cooper S had a larger generator pulley than standard I think (to reduce generator rpm at high engine rpm. Not sure about the water pump pully, I thought that was the same.


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I use this as an example for why I am led to believe the cooper s had a larger water pump pulley:
http://www.classicmotoring.net.au/cmos/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_156&products_id=37

A couple are listed here:

http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/in ... page&id=97


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gtogreen1969
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 6:23 pm 
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8700s14 wrote:
phillb wrote:
8700s14 wrote:
Also, another question: I measured my belt (well, the belt off the car, not the one around my waist) and it is about 810mm, I see there are three common sizes of 813, 825 and 850mm, the 'cooper s mk1' should be suited to the 850mm belt (larger water pump pulley), what should the diameter of the cooper s water pump pulley be?


The Cooper S had a larger generator pulley than standard I think (to reduce generator rpm at high engine rpm. Not sure about the water pump pully, I thought that was the same.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I use this as an example for why I am led to believe the cooper s had a larger water pump pulley:
http://www.classicmotoring.net.au/cmos/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_156&products_id=37

That should read "larger dynamo pulley". The water pump pulley was the standard one used by the other models.
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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 6:51 pm 
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8700s14 wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
I would remove the radiator hoses, refit water pump, plug water pump inlet. Then fill to top of head with 1:3 molasses and water mix. Leave 2 or 3 weeks, remove water pump and welch plugs then hose out. Fit new water pump and welch plugs.
I have an S motor on the floor getting this treatment. ;)

I've done this before so I know it works.


I had thought of doing so, but was worried about washing it out afterwards. Does washing it out with the garden hose afterward actually get all the softened crud out?


Yes it does. Garden hose works, a karcher or similar is even better.

Before filling I remove the hex plug at back corner of the block and twiddle a drill bit in there. Then after draining, aim the hose in there too.
I generally stand the block on it's back and fill to the water pump hole, with the head on. But I don't see why this won't work in the car.

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simon k
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 7:11 pm 
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I'd be really concerned about the condition of the bearings after sitting for so long... engine oil turns acidic, and left on the bearings will eat them away...

take it out and off the gearbox, you'll probably get away with putting new rings and bearings in it & not a full rebuild

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8700s14
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 7:45 pm 
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simon k wrote:
I'd be really concerned about the condition of the bearings after sitting for so long... engine oil turns acidic, and left on the bearings will eat them away...

take it out and off the gearbox, you'll probably get away with putting new rings and bearings in it & not a full rebuild


I was planning on taking the 'fingers crossed' approach. :lol:
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simonw
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 9:31 pm 
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Phosphoric acid . Getsrid of the rust . Flush out after 20 mins.


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8700s14
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 11:14 pm 
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simonw wrote:
Phosphoric acid . Getsrid of the rust . Flush out after 20 mins.


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I do like the idea of using a converter for the potential benefit of having it hold off the re-forming of rust.
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