Managed to fit new CV boots inner and outer without removing hub etc. as per my other post. Having problems securing the outer end of outer CV boot as so little clearance to hub assembly. Cable ties would not fit as the securing part stands high and would be ripped off when shaft turns. Wire is very hard to get around and tightened. Guess this might be why people take off the whole hub etc?

Any tips or tricks? Have removed the brake caliper assembly for a little more access but still doesn't seem possible to get the boot secured well.

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

to do it properly....the hub should moved off the CV joint and the grease completely wiped from the tightening area of the boot.
You can buy CV boot bands which clear the hub and look kosher to boot!

http://minisport.com.au/pair-of-outer-cv-boot-clipsastraps

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....you just lost him his insurance bonus!

997

Get the tool for it too. Makes life easy.

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

You can also buy the straps cheap from CV joint repair shops.
If you don't have the proper tool you can get by with 2 pr of longnose pliers.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Stainless cable ties.

Thanks guys,

No effective way of using any these mentioned items without removing hub, then?

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

All these (except the plastic cable ties) are possible options..(although i've never been flush enough the buy a tool that might be used every ten years or so)...Back when we also used soft tie wire ..

All options would be very difficult with the cv still mounted to the hub... which will be not as easy to remove now that things are disassembled..

I would re-attach the ball joints and place a large smooth bar (I use a short jemmy) threaded through the wheel studs to hold things steady while loosening the hub nut.

Cheers, Ian

If you do the bars and wheel stud thing that Ian suggested, make sure you put nuts on the studs to avoid damaging the thread.

It can be done in situ, its just fiddly. Long pliers help.

I've noticed there are a couple of styles of CV. I have a mix on my car. Some the boot and groove is deeper into the hub and needs a really neat flush clip. Even the groove is different or in a different spot. I found in the end you save yourself a lot of cursing by undoing top and bottom ball joints and removing the hub and shaft complete and then as above you can get it all clean so the boot is not slipping around.


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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

I don't love stainless cable ties, they always loosen off about 3mm after they engage, and even with pliers I can't get them to stay tight enough

I like this type, they came with my last pair of boots. I have some Channellock multi-grips that have the perfect angle to do them up

Thanks again, all.

The groove is really inside the CV joint towards the hub, so looks like the hub will come off, as I don't want to do this again any time soon.....

Still can't get the grease out of my nails!

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

Yeah it sounds like one like mine. The clip really needs to be flat and neat for clearance. If you take out the shaft and hub complete you could take it to a friendly cv place or mechanic either to get the good clips or them to do it.


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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

New disc CVs are pretty easy to clip when in the hub, the clip is much closer to the edge of the CV than originals.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Do yourself a favour, remove the hubs (as suggested by others) and when re-installing, take the opportunity to adjust hub float/bearing clearance and thus avoid unnecessary wear at the inner collars on the disc hubs. Betcha they need adjusting.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Oh, almost forgot. May as well check your ball-joints for wear too. For peace of mind..................

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.