I have a 998. I have approx 3-4k ideally I would like to spend on engine, should I save up and upgrade or can I do enough mods to the engine to give it some oomph.

I want to have the car sound like porn and also be quick. Not wrx quick but able to beat cars off the mark whilst sounding amazing

http://russellengineering.com.au/projec ... gine-pt-1/

http://russellengineering.com.au/project-68mm-part-1/

Good reading ^^^

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

Read above article. There isn't any substitute for CC's. If you want much more power you'll want more CC's which will mean total rebuild.

Think about spending some money on head porting which you can use now on the 998 and then later on a bigger 1098+. Think about changing cam too. Those two will give biggest bang for buck. I threw a Russell Engineering 12G295 head on a 1098 and it transformed the car, but moving from 1098 to purpose built 1330 was revolutionary.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Hehe how much would a 1330 cost to dump in though? Ive seen a 1275 imported from minisport you can get landed here for around 4.5k

Take a look at this Power Unit.
Is A Bargain at this price when you consider the cost of all the Components. Most of which are high end and very expensive.
I Guess you could always Change the Cam if it wasn't to your liking.
Well worth a look if you are serious about a complete package.
It is Not Mine, Nor do I stand to gain as a result of its sale.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92435

Dave

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Yeah I looked at that, it looks like it would be a complete beast!!
I do want to be able to drive the car to the shops and stuff too, not sure if this engine would be suitable for that or just for performance/track?

As I said you could always change the Cam out for one more suited to the road.
Perhaps something from, Piper, Kent or APT would be best...
You may have to adjust the compression ratio too, depending where it is set.

Dave

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Yeah agree about above engine. I've always thought it to be a bargain. You would get used to driving a quick car pretty fast. I only ever drive mine to the shops lol

What about Disc Brakes? Do you have drums at the front? 1275 cc requires disc brakes in order to get registered...

I would not import an engine from overseas sight unseen. Last time I bought one of those it has a big hole in it. Unless it was from a reputable seller and came with some sort of warranty. Even then what do you do? Send it back??

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I havent got disc brakes on my car yet but I plan to upgrade them anyway.

What about this engine? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/elimbah/ ... 1117505427

$4500. Is that worth it or not really?

This motor sounds a good one.
I run the 282 cam in my road 1360, it is quite drivable in traffic. More so in a stroker.

Another member here bought a 'red paint reconditioned ' engine from UK with supposed Good Bits in it. $3K I think he paid. It was poorly built with a race cam, and wrong valve springs for starters. It dropped a valve when first run. Fixed that, then not long after, the bearings went.
Unless from a reputable shop, I would not buy a UK rebuilt engine.

Build your motor local so you know what you are getting.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If I had to pick the two I'd buy the GR engine. I've had a GR engine for 10 years and it's still going strong even though the lifters and gearbox is giving up, it will still go for a few years to come if I allow it.

No I don't stand to gain anything from sale of that engine bla bla, don't even know the guy selling it.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Yeah its over 10yo tho the GR engine, whilst it is amazing it still is 6.5k i dont really want to spend more than 4k. GR engine is strong for sure

Just don't buy one for $4500 only to find it needs $4500 of work to fix it! That's what we're saying.

I was exactly where you are now 10 years ago except I had a 1098 and disc brakes. First thing to do is change over to disc brakes. Being able to stop quicker and have the confidence to push harder knowing that you will be able to pull her up in time is half of the puzzle of having a nimble mini. Sounds like you're going to do that anyway so why not do that first and reap the benefits now. That's exactly what I did, totally different car to drive because I also sorted out the handling and geometry. Well worth doing.

After that I collected 1275 parts until I was ready to build one on a bench and swap out the engines directly. This year I plan to rebuild and renew this said 10yr old engine...

It might be better to buy a complete engine and rebuild it and knowing what you're getting than buying a supposed "known runner" only to find that it drops valves and grinds crank bearings...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Someone was selling a complete 998 engine, gearbox and all for $120. This is a good start. $120 + $4000 of rework and a 1098 crank = loads of bang for buck.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Recondition your existing donk, get a reputable repairer on here to do the work...think about stroking and mildly camming your existing engine (assuming it is a good overhaul candidate)...add extractors, carbs and disks (don't forget to do the clutch whilst at it).

ohhh...and one of these for the look and sound (peel off label first)...

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"Show me the Mini!"