My 1961 twin carb 850 (OK, so it used to get a bit of a rev to 7000 sometimes) once tore the tin pulley apart through the rivets. But not long afterwards, the 850 crank broke, through the front web.... so I dunno which problem caused what.

Common 998s (non Cooper) had the plain tin pulley too... and there are still zillions running about. Ditto 948 Morris Minors.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There are also some cast iron front pulleys about,,, not tin riveted,,, not 2 piece rubber-ised , just plain std issue one piece non-dampened cast iron ones

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Yep, the 998 Moke donk I sold recently had one of these on.
But note that plain pulleys were never used on either the 997, or 1275 (both long stroke) Mini cranks. These all had a `balancer' (better described as a `damper')

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ha,,, this is both a funny thread & a very educational one at the same time

i was always led to believe that it was actually called a "Dampener"

& a "Damper" was a camp fire baked bread

Maybe it`s because some "Dampeners" turn into "Damper" when they bust

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Were these single piece iron pulleys the same as the inners from the two piece Cooper S type?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

A `dampener' would make the crank wet, not what you want/need...

Nope Mick, the later plain pulley wasn't the same as Mk1 S inner.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ha,,, see,,, this thread is both funny & edumacationable

& no,,, "S" inner is "S" inner only,,,

the early cast pulleys were (i think) originally from spridgets/minors early era,,, just left over & used on early minis too,,, (((but i wasn`t in the factory at the time so could have been for any other reason))),,, just my guess after they realised the tin ones were breaking apart

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Thanks, it was only because I spotted one in this ad on ebay. Sure looks like an S inner pulley to me...
For 6.05 at the moment, someone is going to be unhappy I put this here

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cooper-Leyland-M ... tsupported

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

BTW

Gratuitous ROMAC pictures for your pleasure, they are pretty aren't they when new?

This one's on Skender's new donk.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Mick is that the steel centre type or all alloy type......They do look awesome and a very good unit.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Steel I believe, Skender picked it up once it became apparent his original type was cactus.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Romac only do all steel or alloy with a steel centre, no such thing as an all alloy Romac HB
The alloy/steel units are fantastically light though compared to an "S" unit

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Too many cars, and too little time.

I must have been misinformed then or they were misinformed and passed on the incorrect information. The first few I bought I was told that they were alloy centre and alloy weight/outter ring and when I picked it up it was very light and the metal finish looked much the same on both parts.
Anyways thats niether here nor there really, I think they are a really good product and will keep using them, especially on non standard engines.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

yeah i bought some ages ago & they had all 3 avaliable at the time.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Just a little thought on the lighter after market dampers. Does anyone have the specs on the rubber resiliance and the difference in weight of the outer section compared to the original ones. The after market ones might look pretty but do they really do the job as the BMC engineers originally designed.
I have found from doing torsional calcs that if the "resistance" of the damper is either too soft or too hard then you do not get the damping of the harmonics in the correct frequency range.
Just a mad idea,but if the rubber is stiffer then it may not work as well. Also if the mass of the outer weight is less then this could also cause problems.

A example of this was on a clatterpillar gen set. The damper was due for relpacement and the new one sent was a "new design" that cat's were using. The genset broke the rear torsional drive soon after. This was replaced and everyone thought all was OK. About 2 months later the crank broke. Scratch that V16. Ofcourse cat just fobbed it off, but the ship owners had a independant assesment done. It was found that the rubber material was of a different dimension and compound than the original unit.
The independant engineering company said after the testing that the new damper was not good enough to take out the torsional.

It's just a thing that I am aware of and maybe?????????
They can be checked by measureing the force required for the same amount of deflection [degrees or radians]
If a crank has a certain amount of stressing already and the damper is too stiff then this could also cause a crank breakage.

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com