Best quote from the Vic Cup round at Bendigo I heard was 'Change those TC6.2 shocks for Tamiya'.

My touring car, a Spec-R, has shocks that are a blatant Tamiya rip off. I measured every component, and they're identical. This is a good thing.

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sigh... more money. At least I can get them from Banzai hobby and they'll be cheap and here quick

I did wonder about the carbon v's alloy shock tower too

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Yeah - the alloy one is probably good for newbs

Buy the TRF shocks - and you'll NEVER have to replace them. You can buy rebuild kits (for about $6 or something stupid) and they are like brand new. That being said - I haven't rebuilt mine in 5 years and they seem to be just fine!

n00bs and h4cks alike!

The white bits wear on shocks (I've only replaced the shock shaft guides that are in the bottom), but not any of the expensive bits.

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So do I need alloy uprights front and rear, or just one or the other?

from the rules, it seems like alloy C hubs aren't allowed, is that correct? the standard screws flop around in the standard C hubs a lot more than I think they should...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I don't know about the V2, but on the normal M05 I only run the front. It's to bring the shocks out to be more upright, which is no already the case on the rear.

Tamiya don't make an alloy c hub, so you can't run one.

You want a little slop in a Mini. I've found mine work best after I think they're worn out! My fastest run at Geelong was the event just before I pulled the thing down completely and replaced all the suspension arms, the chassis, and a heap of other bits!

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Yeah - alloy front mounts only. The rear works as standard - so no need for anything.

If you are talking front and rear knuckles, - then yeah, I run alloy on both ends.

C-Hubs - I don't think I've broken one for years! Alloy ones aren't really needed. Like Scott said, the slop isn't really an issue, they seem to go faster once worn in!

boys... "UPRIGHTS", and what about rear toe? what do we like?

54177 aluminium front upright
54178 rear alloy uprights

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Yep, but just run plastic. I do, well... on the back. I bent my last spare plastic rear upright, so I bent it back to give the right tow. A little reaming and manipulation later it was as good as a new one, and has done 3 months of racing. There's a reason why I have the alloy ones on the front, but can't remember why. Maybe something to do with a low bearing supply issue at the time (I had none in my box). I like plastic uprights, but only when used with 54237 kingpins.

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Front are definites. I run rears as well. Fronts don't bend in a crash that way. Rear's aren't really affected by crashes - but it's a bit more bling for the fun of it!

1.5deg rears on mine for a bit of stability. You can buy 2deg ones too, but I didn't really notice much difference with them. You can get 0 deg ones too. I haven't run them for years though! Might be something to play with again when I get around to it!

Also with the rears, I don't like the suspension pin wearing on the alloy. Could run the c clip style suspension pins and make sure the suspension arms are reamed on the wheel side, and use the grub screw in the upright. I never had the c clip pins so never tried it.

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what on earth are you talking about??

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Don't listen to him......he is talking about wear on the hinge pin. You'll wear out the rest of the car before you wear out the hinge pins! Go home Poeee, you're drunk!

The only way to get hinge pins is to buy a KIT!

I'm more worried about the wear on the $35+ alloy uprights

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You mean the ones I transferred from my 5 year old car to the new one that still beat you?