Hi Everyone,

Long time lurker, looking for some advice.

I have a mk1 1098 mini deluxe with a clutch issue.
Clutch won't disengage.

The operating level is easily moved forward by hand. But only back and forth, it is not loose like it has 360 degree movement.

Is this a release bearing?

A local mechanic has advised me to remove the engine so they can do the clutch repair. Is this correct?

Appreciate any advice here.

Thanks,
marks.

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2009 Mini Cooper JCW - Roger
1967 Mini Deluxe Mk1 - Ruby

I would first remove the clutch lever and check to see if the ball hasn't broken off where it engages the release bearing plunger. This is an easy job and can be done without removing the engine. A broken lever is a common fault.

It could be the arm has the ball broken off the bottom, or just lack of travel due to wear, or worn seals in the MC or slave cylinder.
If it's the release bearing it will be noisy when pedal is down.
There is no need to pull the engine out, the whole clutch assembly including flywheel can be removed in the car.
Take it to a Mini mechanic that knows what he's doing..! there are a few in Brissy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for that.
The hydraulics are fine. It is whatever is pushed by the lever has gone. It went slowly (harshly got harder to change gears), which is why I thought the lever would be ok.

Does the fly wheel need to be removed to get to this assembly? Or to get to the bearing"?

Any recommendations on mechanics in the western suburbs works be welcome.
I used to use a guy on blunder road but he he's moved on from there.

Thanks.

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2009 Mini Cooper JCW - Roger
1967 Mini Deluxe Mk1 - Ruby

To pull the clutch arm out, remove the clip and the big lower pivot pin. It will then pull out.
To do the release bearing, undo the drivers side engine mount, then jack under the sump on that side. Remove all the bolts in the clutch cover aka `wok' and it comes off, with the release bearing. Remove starter first.

No need to pull the flywheel unless the clutch needs work. For this you need a Mini flywheel puller.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

there are 2 big nuts on a thread that should move towards the motor when you pull the lever towards the mudguard... do they move?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Sounds like broken ball. I've had one break and somtimes it just gets worse as it's going. In fact with lots of adjustment I limped home with one that was snapped. The broken end was still operating the clutch[FLUSHED FACE]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Thanks for the advice. I'll go and pick it up over the weekend and get it home.

Is it right if I pull the lever out (to check for wear or missing ball end) I can do that without removing the wok cover?

Cheers.

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2009 Mini Cooper JCW - Roger
1967 Mini Deluxe Mk1 - Ruby

Yes it is

http://www.minispares.com/catalogues/cl ... spx?1~3~31

Check this pic:You need to look on the bottom of #27 for a broken ball.Disconnect spring #36, and pull out splitpin from pin #29 and then remove #27. look inside plunger #22 for broken ball. You may have to get a new #27 if it is broken. you can get a new one from:

http://minisport.com.au/mini-clutch-lev ... on-genuine

Check for wear inside #22 where the ball sits.
Beware, most cheap new ones are rubbish, they are made from soft steel and NOT hardened. So wear out in months, not years. Better ones cost more.
Try a file on its corner, if it cuts it, it is rubbish. Can be fixed by drilling out, then turning and fitting a hardened steel bush. But we shouldn't have to do this.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi All,

I got the lever out and attaching photos.
There is wear but maybe a 1mm off the end. Not a perfect ball but not far off.
Would this small amount of wear be the issue?

Regards,
Mark.

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2009 Mini Cooper JCW - Roger
1967 Mini Deluxe Mk1 - Ruby

That arm has had it. Also look inside the plunger, I bet there is a groove worn in there where the ball sits.
If so, replace it too. And DON'T buy the real cheap plungers, they are so soft they wear out in 3 months. Cannot be hardened because of the material spec. Aftermarket `quality' parts.

Pack it with grease when you reassemble.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i can help you if you`re stuck
Murarrie Bne
Matt
0407 135 656

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Thanks Matt,

I'll get a new arm and plunger (and perhaps a bearing while I'm there) get that in and come and see you. I'm over the other side of Bris Vegas.

Side question. I need to replace the bushes in the control arm. My 67 mk1 uses the tapered ones?

Cheers.

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2009 Mini Cooper JCW - Roger
1967 Mini Deluxe Mk1 - Ruby