Hi Guys,

So i'm putting in some new CV joints, but was just wondering, is there a specific method to get the large circlip on/off? want to make sure i put it on correctly.

Thanks,

the large circlip is just a stopper,,,

if the small "rolled" thin circlip is still in good nick then leave it there & just smack the new CV onto the shaft, (it can be a bit tricky if you havn`t done it before so maybe use a vice with soft-jaws to hold the CV joint & then another person holding 2x thin screw drivers onto the circlip , pushing them in "AS" you`re punching the new CV joint on, bob`s your Aunty

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Or "easy peasy!!!"

_________________
1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

CV joints can require some convincing. Getting someone to hold a driveshaft and cv while another taps off with a rubber mallet sure works wonders.

I have had a couple that needed the CV cut off to get the driveshaft out, because the wire circlip had got deformed. Rubber hammer? A bricky's hammer didn't move these.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Many (many) years ago tried to change the CV joints on my Cooper S with the help of my Holden mechanic apprentice mate. Even with the SP manual and a BFH, couldn't budge the bastards....

Gave up and had a few beers and put up with the clicking noise on turns.....

Still have all the greasy fingerprints from that day on my SP manual!

_________________
Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

I used the hammer method but have since aquired a piece of heavy wall aluminium tube that allows the drive shaft to just fit through. This allows the tube to sit against the inner of the Cv right where the force is required. By impacting the end of the tube on the floor whilst holding vertical and the weight of the shaft will pop it straight off. I also use a block of wood on the floor to protect the end of the shaft when it pops loose.
Same principal as a slide hammer

_________________
"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

I've also used the hammer method successful, but I like the idea of the aluminium tube. Very clever Brian.

_________________
Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

Some interesting approaches, I am sure all work well in there own right.

I haven't had the displeasure of anything too stuck, although, I have had a few times where I'm left scratching my head wondering if it will budge. Sometimes a bit of patience helps a lot.

Again, all I've ever done is bang them off. Perhaps removing the entire drive shaft from the inboard will allow you to get better purchase on it.

Let us know how you get on.