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 Post subject: Inner steering rack end
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 6:32 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
My steering rack has a little play in the passenger side, inner end of the rod (inside the rubber boot).
How hard is it to get in there and nip it up :?: What's involved :?:

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 6:56 pm 
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sounds very dangerous to me
i`d get a mini specialist to check it all over
so much stuff to look at & if you miss one (seemingly) silly thing
could mean disaster & pain
please get an experienced mini mechanic onto it???
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 6:57 pm 
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Location: Toowoomba Region, QLD
I would say it would be pretty hard - I have only adjusted it with the rack out of the car though. You have to deform a lock tab to keep it in place and I can't imagine that would be easy to get past while on the car. It seemed to be made of pretty hard steel and I had a hard enough time during disassembly out of the car to break that connection apart.

Someone more experienced should be able to help but I'm leaning towards - too hard to do in the car.

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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 2:55 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Bentleigh, Melbourne
I have the same problem. I assumed the solution is remove the rack and replace it (its 49 years old I suspect) with an overhauled one..

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RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..


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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 3:14 pm 
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Removing the rack is not a hard job. Even on a hydro car. The front hoses are long enough to stay connected as the rear of the subframe is dropped for clearance.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 4:41 pm 
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Thanks for that Doc. But does one overhaul the rack or get a new one?

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..


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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 5:01 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Melbourne, VIC
deluxe67 wrote:
But does one overhaul the rack or get a new one?

If you aren't confident to recondition it yourself an easy option is an exchange unit. At least you know all the important bits have been replaced and the build done by a competent person.

Check the various Mini parts suppliers. As a guide MKO do a changeover for less than $200. Minisport have new for a bit more.

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... ssembly-2/

http://minisport.com.au/mini-moke-steer ... australian

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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 8:27 pm 
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Location: Victoria
And $199 for brand new at MinisPlus in Victoria.


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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 8:32 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Note most of the new imported racks are not repairable.

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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 8:44 pm 
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Minicooper4me wrote:
And $199 for brand new at MinisPlus in Victoria.

http://www.minisplus.com.au/classic-min ... sembly-new

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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 9:12 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Note most of the new imported racks are not repairable.

We have done some work on reconditioning these, they can be done and I'm running one in my own Moke.
The problem is it acutually costs the same to reco them as to buy a new one, so it's not worh doing at this stage.

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 6:34 am 
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A member here fitted a new one last year, it fell to bits in a month. So he then got his old one reconditioned instead. Should last another 30 years. :)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 3:01 pm 
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Based on what I have read and heard, the newer racks are not much chop regarding service life and also differ in travel to the Aus racks in some cases.

I have also been told the Aus racks were a bit more 'heavy duty' than the modern UK racks, and are are actually sought after in the UK.

I have one of the more modern racks with the big and little rack boots in my car at the moment, but will rebuild and refit an Aus rack when I change the front subframe in the next couple of months.

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Last edited by Tim I on Sat May 14, 2016 7:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 4:34 pm 
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Location: Belair, Adelaide
That's interesting. So should I stick with the old one which seems ok, or replace it with a new minispares 'quick rack' which is a little quicker at 2.2 turns lock to lock?


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 4:46 pm 
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I don't think you will notice much difference between 2.2 and 2.25

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